Will Jerusalem settlement freeze thaw relations?
You enter Silwan just by Jerusalem's Old City, right under the majestic walls of the al-Aqsa mosque.
As the hillside drops away sharply in front of you, the houses flow down the contours like a cascade of concrete, brickwork and windows plunging into the valley below.
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There are fifty thousand people in Silwan, the great majority of them Muslim and Christian Arabs.
For some years though Jews have been expanding their toehold in the neighbourhood, buying houses, mostly in the upper part, near the Old City.
Now that proximity talks between Israelis and Palestinians have started up again, with both sides insisting they are keen to move forthwith to face to face talks, places like Silwan could prove to be the biggest obstacle to progress.
Source of identity
Jerusalem itself holds totemic power for both peoples, and it is for that reason that some hail the apparent Israeli construction freeze in the city as evidence that the current peacemaking drive may at last be producing some tangible results.
At the Knesset, or Israeli Parliament, Labour member Daniel Ben Simon said that the de facto decision to freeze Israeli construction in Jerusalem is "unprecedented" and that it demonstrates that Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu is, "some kind of magician".
"Jerusalem still, in the eyes of all Israelis, is the jewel of all Israeli identity. Without it we are nothing... I don't know how he did it," Mr Ben Simon told me.
The magic does not extend actually to announcing that halt in Jewish construction projects in the city, since that would antagonise Mr Netanyahu's right wing coalition partners.
Washington pressure
But diplomats and some Palestinian politicians I have spoken accept that the freeze is nevertheless happening.
Adnan Husseini, styled "Governor of Jerusalem" by the Palestinian Authority, says that rather than a breakthrough for peace the change is "a tactic by Mr Netanyahu, under American pressure".
There is no doubt that there has been pressure on the Israeli prime minister from the White House and that President Barack Obama, apparently satisfied, has now eased the pain a little by inviting Mr Netanyahu to visit him in Washington on Tuesday.
But where might it lead, when so much might still go wrong?
In Silwan not only are there the main group of Jewish families, keen to repopulate an area of the city which they celebrate as the ancient capital of King David, but there are also actors that might de-rail any progress.
Demolition plan
A more radical Jewish movement has housed itself up deep in Silwan.
The Municipality is insisting it will carry out at the bottom of the valley in order to create a park.
Palestinians in Silwan argue this has increased tension palpably.
Fakri Abu Diab, owner of one of those houses and a campaigner against the Israeli authorities, showed me his property.
For him, having paid city taxes for years and been refused official permission to extend his house, the planned clearance marks a final insult:
"In 43 years they have done nothing for us", he told me, counting the years since Israel took the West Bank from Jordan, "and now they do this!"
The Israelis say that Islamic militants have come into the neighbourhood and are planning attacks on Jewish residents.
The Palestinians worry that messianic Jewish militants, like those who recently marched in Silwan, touching off clashes, may attempt to provoke bloodier confrontations.
So with the communities living cheek to cheek in such a sensitive area, there are all manner of things that could go wrong.
Some Israelis believe Mr Netanyahu will simply not allow the Municipality to go ahead with its demolition project, but the city authority insists upon its independence in the matter.
All in all then it is likely to be a hot summer in Silwan.
But the wider question is whether recent steps by the Israeli government mark the beginning of a serious peace process or whether it is a tactic?
Mr Obama will make his own judgement about that next week, but if his judgement is positive the Palestinian Authority will soon be under pressure to respond.