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Killing Weevils

• Message 1. 

  Posted by AuntWeevil (U3015867) on Saturday, 21st January 2006

  I've just sent off this message to the Beebs Gardening Website:
  "The Gardeners Year, Episode 4 on Friday 20th January 2006 advocated the use of "insecticide" in compost to kill vine weevils. Surely Alan Titchmarsh does not advocate killing bees. The only insecticide available to kill vine weevils grubs is Provado, a systemic chemical which remains active in all parts of the plant for 6 months and kills bees feeding on the pollen.. The label ambiguously states "Apply away from bees". Its use is condemned by the Royal Horticultural Society and all environmentalists. Despite this, it is widely used commercially and I personally know many people who use it in their gardens. The number of bees in our area is falling drastically. As I frequently try hard to convince people, I was horrified to hear their guru, Alan Titchmarsh, recommending it. Would welcome your comments." Bet Alan won't reply personally.

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• Message 2

  , in reply to message 1.

  Posted by Obelixx (U2157162) on Sunday, 22nd January 2006

  I have a carnivorous plant which is supposed to eat vine weevils. It is called Sarracenia x 'Wrigleyana', likes full sun and a moist soil and soft water and is reputed to be hardy down to -20C. I don't knowingly have a vine weevil problem but I found it attractive in a spooky kind of way so I bought it as a curiosity.
  
  For anyone with a serious vine weevil problem I don't actually see the harm in using Provado on compost in pots as long as care is taken to keep it off the parts of the plants which attract and nourish bees and other beneficial insects. If I'm wrong, I don't mind being enlightened but don't want a lecture.

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• Message 3

  , in reply to message 2.

  Posted by Rhoda Dendron (U2176380) on Sunday, 22nd January 2006

  Hi Obelixx
  
  I have a big problem with the dreaded weevils and have found the grubs in my borders eating away at roots as early as February!! I have tried nematodes several times (expensive didn't work for me) and now water the pots with Provado. Most of my potted stuff are foliage plants (hostas and grasses) so that shouldn't be a problem for the bees. Any flowers in pots are likely to be annuals so I don't Provado these on the grounds that they will be finished by the time any weevil grubs have developed. I occasionally find the nasty weevils ambling around indoors at the end of the summer and have had the grubs in my indoor plants before now. Yeuch!
  

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• Message 4

  , in reply to message 3.

  Posted by Obelixx (U2157162) on Monday, 23rd January 2006

  Hi Rhoda - I have hostas and grasses in pots too and all very healthy so far and probably in need of splitting up to give them more room to grow on this year. That's going to be a huge job as I have about 30 pots.
  
  The only other stuff I have in pots are my two blueberries, two acers which are going in the ground this spring, lillies - so I can move them into view when in flower and also get at the pesky lily beetles and finally a few pots for summer which usually get trailing pelargoniums. So far, no vine weevils but I have a bottle of Provado on stand-by just in case.

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• Message 5

  , in reply to message 1.

  Posted by KarmaChameleon (U2371177) on Monday, 23rd January 2006

  Good point, but what would you recommend in place of Pravado? Until there is an alternative effective way of dealing with these pests, people are going to continue to use it.
  
  Nematodes are only effective when the soil reaches a certain temperature, so not really practical as the beetles and grubs are active most of the year.
  
  I don't find Vine Weevil that much of a problem as I have very few plants in containers, and this seems to be their favourite place, they don't seem too keen on open ground.
  
  

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• Message 6

  , in reply to message 2.

  Posted by KarmaChameleon (U2371177) on Monday, 23rd January 2006

  Obelixx, you're missing the point a little, Pravado is a systemic insecticide which means that if you water it into the soil it will translocate through all the plant tissues, and get into the pollen, thereby killing any bees and any other insects that feed on it.

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• Message 7

  , in reply to message 6.

  Posted by Obelixx (U2157162) on Monday, 23rd January 2006

  Thanks Dee. Hadn't realised that but then I haven't used it yet either. Are there any natural predaors part from tipping affected compost out for birds to pick over?

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• Message 8

  , in reply to message 7.

  Posted by William (U2169036) on Monday, 23rd January 2006

  Hi Obelixx
  
  Over here (Netherlands) Provado like insecticides are allowed to be used as contact insecticide only. Liberally applying it in the borders not only kills the grubs but a lot of other soil bound insects too. I suppose loimiting its use to potted plants makes a slight difference but as Dee says the substance might migrate into the pollen although the systemic effect of this insecticide is rather limited (alledgedly)
  
  Best alternative is letting chickens and blackbirds have a free 'hand' in the borders. Not 100% effective but still quite good. Although I suppose people with a nice collection of potted fu(c)hsias would want to do better than 'quite good'

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• Message 9

  , in reply to message 8.

  Posted by Obelixx (U2157162) on Tuesday, 24th January 2006

  Hi William - I did only buy the stuff as a kind of insurance for my pots and wouldn't dream of using it in open borders. The only chemical I do use is glyphosate on paths and very stubborn weeds and that becomes inactive on contact with the soil. I suspect the Dutch are rather better informed - and compliant - about laws and chemicals. Here people seem to obey the laws that suit them - or maybe the government isn't so organised about informing them of new regulations. Still see loads of people driving around with no seat belts and using mobiles. Speeding isn't so bad though since they introduced a lot of expensive fine inducing radar traps.

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• Message 10

  , in reply to message 1.

  Posted by susie-snowdrop (U2989562) on Tuesday, 24th January 2006

  My local nursery uses a chemical called Vinil (I think that's how it's spelt). Does anybody know if this is also harmful to our friends in the garden? I know it cannot be used on edible crops.
  I'm afraid that I'm the 'mad woman down the road'! I go out on a night with a white plate which I place under my plants whilts tapping them! The little devils fall off, pretend to play dead and I then bring to to an abrupt, but painless end! This, so far, has worked for me.

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• Message 11

  , in reply to message 10.

  Posted by Olpharty (U2504503) on Tuesday, 24th January 2006

  Wetting the compost with a solution of Armillotox [and probably Jeyes Fluid] a few days before planting is supposed to kill the weevil's eggs. Watering to most established plants at ground level is claimed to do the same.

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• Message 12

  , in reply to message 6.

  Posted by Seacarrot (U3012141) on Wednesday, 25th January 2006

  Bees are pollen feeders not sap suckers, such as aphids, scale etc... sap suckers will be affected by any systemic chemical targeted at them, pollen feeders, I believe, are not unless they come into contact with the chemical during application.

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• Message 13

  , in reply to message 12.

  Posted by AuntWeevil (U3015867) on Sunday, 5th February 2006

  Hello Seacarrot, where did you get the idea that plant pollen doesn't take up systemic poisons? The RHS will tell you it does. Lethal to bees, not just on contact. Would love it if you were right but, sorry, don't think so.

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• Message 14

  , in reply to message 13.

  Posted by MizzTuppence (U2378711) on Sunday, 5th February 2006

  I never use insecticides in my garden. I have the occassional problem with vine weevil, they like busy lizzies aparently, but by the time they cause problems the plants are ready to be discarded in the autumn, so no problem!
  I did have vine weevil grubs in a pot that contained a three-year-old fucshia so panicked a bit when I saw the little blighters eating away at the roots. As it was early spring and the Fucshia was just starting to grow, I removed it from the pot and washed the roots until every grub had disappeared. The fucshia survived to flower beautifully again and have taken some cuttings as a precaution against any further attacks. I don't spray my many roses either, clearing all greenfly from the buds with my fingertips, they flower just as well and I always get great pleasure in watching the sparrows, bluetits, wrens, etc feeding on the greenfly. sorry greenfly!!

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• Message 15

  , in reply to message 14.

  Posted by AuntWeevil (U3015867) on Sunday, 19th February 2006

  Hello Mizz Tuppance - well done for physically removing weevil grubs. I do the same every spring, with almost every one of my hundreds of pots in the garden. Takes me a week. The grubs love fuschias particularly. Means hard work but worth it. Pots need annual attention anyway - fresh compost and root pruning etc. so the extra checking just makes it take a bit longer. Keep up the good environmental work.

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• Message 16

  , in reply to message 13.

  Posted by Olpharty (U2504503) on Sunday, 19th February 2006

  Hello Seacarrot, where did you get the idea that plant pollen doesn't take up systemic poisons? The RHS will tell you it does. Lethal to bees, not just on contact. Would love it if you were right but, sorry, don't think so.  
  
  Do the RHS have any factual proof of this or is it based on supposition and speculative theories? I just crack or squash them when I find them whilst uttering a short expletive as a supplication to rid me of this evil weevil........

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• Message 17

  , in reply to message 16.

  Posted by hayleybug (U2354723) on Monday, 20th February 2006

  So what is recommended for weevils on open ground i.e. the little blighters that are eating my broad bean plants? didnt think they'd be out and about in this weather but apparently theres no stopping them if you use polytunnels!

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• Message 18

  , in reply to message 17.

  Posted by Obelixx (U2157162) on Monday, 20th February 2006

  See post 2 for a vine weevil eating plant.

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• Message 19

  , in reply to message 18.

  Posted by royalgreen (U2373730) on Monday, 20th February 2006

  I try and limit the number of containers I have. Once a year I change the compost in all of them and brush out the worse of any infestion. Obviously more effectively with fruit trees (nice big roots and all compost easily removed) but normally don't have a major issues with the little monsters for the rest of the year. Sometimes I think the problem with pests (including vine weevils) is overrated in order to sell us gardeners some more chemicals!

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