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24 September 2014
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Final sail of the Great Yarmouth herring fleet
The Great Yarmouth herring fleet

Herring fleet sails for the last time

For many years, the Great Yarmouth herring fleet was a familiar sight off the east coast. Now you can enjoy unique footage from the 1950s, shot by amateur cinematographer Norman Bassett, as the fleet headed out for the last time.


The great shoals of herring once found in the North Sea off Great Yarmouth laid an early path to the town's fortune. Fishermen moved to the area from around the country - they were followed by the merchants who sold herrings to the whole of Europe.

October and November were the main fishing months as the shoals arrived to feed off the east coast each autumn. The most prolific ground was Smith's Knoll, some 30 miles north-east of the town.

The majestic scene of the herring fleet heading out to sea was a common sight for many years, but as consumer demand moved away from the herring, times were about to change.

The end of an era

In 1955, fish fingers were developed in Great Yarmouth. As customers began to favour the taste of white fish, so it was the beginning of the end for the herring fleet.

Valerie Tuttle grew up in the seaside town - living on the seafront in her parents' hotel The Granby. Today it's been converted into flats and a restaurant. Valerie's father, Norman Bassett, was a keen amateur cinematographer.

"I was about six or seven at the time. Dad was just filming and said 'Look there's the herring drifters going by'. Later we heard it was the last time they'd ever been seen as a fleet," said Valerie.

Herring smack leaving Great Yarmouth harbour
Herring smack leaving Great Yarmouth

"I'd just come back from the dentist and we heard about the fishing fleet leaving the harbour.

"We went to the top of our hotel on the seafront and my father just filmed it from the parapet. It was obviously a big event as so many people were watching from the beach, which you can see in the film.

"I can still vaguely remember the boats, the harbour and the smell of the fish. I didn't really pay much attention at the time - it was just there," she added.

In the heyday of the east coast fishing industry, it was said you could walk from one side of the River Yare to the other on the decks of the ships. If that wasn't quite true, locals certainly remember it that way.

Distributing the catch

The fish were loaded on to the quayside at both Yarmouth and Gorleston, where hundreds of Scottish fisher girls would gut and prepare them in the open air. It was tough work and hard on the hands, but their singing and cheerfulness kept them going.

The dockside was served by a complex system of rail lines, set into the cobble stones, which connected with the main line at Vauxhall Station.

Most of the fish left the port by this route for distribution around the country.

Photographs from a film by Norman Bassett - c, 1955

last updated: 06/06/05
Have Your Say
What are your stories of Great Yarmouth in the 1950s?
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oldmanofhoy
just writing about my own memories of these days of the herring fishing in my native Island of Stronsay in Orkneys.// july was our main month with overlaps and the boats followed the fish to Yarmouth as autumn came in // so did many of the gutter girls, Scots mainly // your article brings it all back // scorrie //

kennethpalmer
i was born in gt yarmouth in 1948 and remember the herring boats coming in i used to go down and watch them and getting bags of fish and sell them for a penny each

Vera
As a small child in the fifties I remember going to parties above a pub along Southtown Rd, I think it was the Halfway House or a similar name. I think these were run by the fishermens social clubs, to which my uncles, who were fishermen, belonged; and my sister and I always looked forward to. Happy Days.

Ron Utting
PRIOR TO THE FIFTIES IT WAS A REGULAR SATURDAY PASS TIME TO CYCLE DOWN TO THE RIVER VERY NEAR THE GT YARMOUTH TOWN HALL AND STAND AND WATCH THE HERRING BEING UNLOADED FROM THE HOLD IN EACH DRIFTER. AS THE ROPES PULLED OUT A CRAN OF HERRING IT WAS GUIDED MANUALY TO TWO MEN STANDING ON THE QUAY,AS THE CRAN PAST TO THE BASKETS MORE OFTEN THAN NOT HERRING USED TO SLIDE OFF READY TO BE PICKED UP TO BE TAKEN HOME TO MUM FOR THE SATURDAY TEA.IN 1950 I WORKED IN THE DEPARTMENTAL STORE OF ARNOLDS AND VERY OFTEN THE SCOTTISH GIRLS WHO GUTTED THE HERRING WALKED THROUGH THE STORE BUT UNFORTUNALY FOR US HAD NOT WASHED BEFORE HAND AND THE SMELL WAS PRETTY POWERFUL.

rosemary
My dad was one of the fishing men that went out catching herring ,he made us like fish he was a good cook,so to this day I am a fisher man daughter and love my fish.

JohnCarr
I recall seeing the silver harvest of herring,being hoisted ashore in large basketsand conveyed to the sheds where the Scottish girls would gut and clean them with amazing speed. Their fingers would be bloodied and bandaged,where the sharp knives had cut them. They shouted to each other as they worked in strange guttral gaelic. If the localboys tried to steal a fish,they would shout and throw fish guts at us.

LIZ HAWTHORNE
My family used to holiday every year from 1945 to 1972 at Caister-on-Sea. My father used to holiday on his own later in September and go out with the Caister men for the Herring. I have re-dicovered Caister, California, Hemsby, Winterton and Gt. Yarmouth things have certainly altered. I did enjoy my holiday this year though. It was like coming home. In 1969 I spent a month at California. I think at times I should have stayed.

Mal Borrett
In the 50's I lived in Arundel Road, Newtown.I attended North Denes school and then Yarmouth Grammar. My grandfather, Charles Brett who lived with us until his death in 1959, worked on the herring boats as an engineer during his working life. I have fond memories of warm summer evenings at the Pleasure Beach, friday nights at the 'pictures', usually the Regent or the Aquarium, working evenings at Alfredo's coffee lounge in Regent Road, the Easter fairs in the market place and playing left back for a few years with Gt Yarmouth FC. Life has been very good in Australia but the memories of growing up in Yarmouth in the late 40's and through the 50's will be treasured forever.

David Colman
In the 50s I went to the North Denes school,at 4pm when school finished you could see the herring fleet coming home.There decks awash having so much weight of fish aboard.

A J HALL
My grandfather Alfred Philpott was nightwatchman on Herring Drifter Y112(Silver Dawn). I spent many a night and day on this drifter and have many happy memories of those times. As many local people of that time will recall, many Scottish drifter skippers and their crews and wives and children would lodge at local people's houses for the fishing season. Many of the wives would be employed in the gutting sheds. I recall one such gutting shed was situated on what was called Mission Quay and had a trading name of Duthies. The speed at which these women could gut a herring had to be seen to be believed! My grandmother was one of the locals who used to take in a Scotch family for the fishing season - this being a source of income in what were hard times. On a lighter note when it became time for the Scottish family to leave and return home, the mother would get quite emotional and clasp me to her very ample chest - I had great difficulty breathing. And as these families tended to come back to the same lodgings every year I made sure that I went missing when that time arrived. I had better explain that I was only 10 years old at the time!

Ted Armiger
One of the most fascinating things about the combined Gt. Yarmouth and Lowestoft drifters was ... they always managed to sail in on a Saturday morning ... when Norwich City were playing at home !!

Trevor Holmes
AS to the drifters leaving Gt Yarmouth for the last time in 1955. Iam at aloss to understand how the Yarmouth Mercury reported that, with a photo taken from Gorleston pier, the Fertile of Fraserburgh No 305 left in November 1968. As a pupil of Priory School I well remember the 5th October 1955 standing on the beach to view the 150th anniversary of Nelson's victory with the whole school. My grandmother would take me to the fishwarf where, with other members of the Mission to Seame, they would make cups of tea etc. Then at two o'clock to quay to see the Church of Scotland fishermans service on the balcony of building next to the doctor's? and about two away from the old police station.. the fishermen would be dressed in their blue ganseys and trousers with highly polished black shoes. Who remebers the "utility busses" with their wooden seats? these were brought out every year on the No2 bus route from Netown to the Fishwarf during the herring season.

Nick Fribbens
i can remember my father, who was a teacher, taking me when I was very young to see the herring fleet at Gt Yarmouth as part of a schoool trip for older children. The fishermen's wives gutted and filleted the fish in sheds next to the warf. We were able to go on board a drifter and seen the conditions they lived in. This must have been in the late 50s as I was born in Dec 1953.

Ivor Gibson
I lived in Gt Yarmouth in the 50s. My dad was a driver at Yarmouth Station, he brought the last train into the station during the floods in '53. The water was above the platform level and it put the fire out in the loco. My favourite pastime was roller skateing on the Wellington Pier

Roy Shearing
I remember, when I was 10/11 years old, going down to the harbour with my father to buy some fresh herring off the boats when the fleet arrived. There were trawlers and drifters everywhere along the River Yare moored along side each other all along the wharves. Boats from Fraserburgh, Peterhead, Yarmouth and places I've forgotten - all identified by their letter codes and numbers on the sides of the boats. It was a bit like train spotting, trying to identify the boat from the furthest port from Great Yarmouth. I guess this was 1954/5 and I remember someone saying that the numbers of boats was down on the previous year. I seeem to remember that a shilling bought almost a bucket of fish, which had to be eaten within a few days as we didn't have freezers and refridgerators - only a "cold box" on a stone floor.

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