Name/aka:
Howard, 37
Ìý
Hometown:
Bristol
Home region: Devon
Where and why did you start surfing?
I lived in San Diego back in ’96 and never looked back. Bought my first board at Bob’s Mission Surf, a Hobie, and fell in love with the ocean and all its wonders.
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Surf wagon/vehicle/how do you get to the water? Golf converted and running well on waste veg oil
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Your board(s):
6’2 fish from Black and White, 9’ mal by Mat DeCruz, J-Bay shaper.
Your fave board: quiver me timbers?
A big summer log with a huge single fin, for surfing small summer days in Devon. It's small, but its just good old fun.
Your thoughts on Ireland becoming a global surfing destination? I think its great that its opened up, there’s still relatively few crowds and a great culture and atmosphere. Only been once, but its beautiful (when it stopped raining…)
Surf guidebooks make things too easy, and have been a bad thing for Irish surfing. Discuss: No, don’t agree. Surf guides just make it easy to get around a country that’s already accessible. It’s not like we’re in Alaska and there’s an unknown gem hiding round a corner somewhere.
Most surf friendly pubs / gigs / eateries:
The Chichester Arms in Morthoe, Devon.
Favourite Surfer/s and why:
Billy Hume, Jeff Myers and Bob McBrien, so far they’ve been the most interesting story tellers I’ve met
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Advice for someone just starting:
Avoid the crowds
Advice for someone wanting to move on from newbie status:
Don’t get cocky, respect the beginners, we were all one once.Ìý
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Tip on surviving the Irish winter:
Fill your suit with oats
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Best/invaluable single bit of kit:
My girlfriend, she makes a great surf trip even better. Seriously.
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Kit tip:
Don’t buy an expensive winter steamer and expect it to last more than 12 months…
Best thing about surfing:
Nature, silence, peace.
Recommended info -Ìýbooks/movies/websites/clubs, surf or otherwise: Ron Stoner book, that’s a great read about a really great guy who sadly fell out of line with the surf world.ÌýNathan Oldfield’s Seaworthy. Just beautiful. Oh, and Drift Surf Magazine.
Any ambition as a surfer?
Still be doing it when I’m 90
What one way has surfing changed your life?
I’ve realised its not what you take out of life, but what you give back.
Dream surf trip:
Noosa.
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Anything else to declare?
Not in the public domain…
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