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16 October 2014

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Adrian Grimshaw -  "Me flying at Polzeath"

听听on next : Gerry Anderson

Name/aka: Mark "finger" Taylor, 53,

Hometown: Astoria, Oregon, USA

Home region: The wild North Coast of Oregon

How long you surfing? 41 years

3 sentences that describe you/what you do:
I think a true measure of a person isn't derived from what they do for a living, but what they do for fun. Me? I surf, I live and breathe it. I try to surf everyday, then go to my surf shop and talk surfing all day!


Where and why did you start surfing?
I grew up in Oahu Hawaii and learned to surf when I was around 12 years old. There was a canal behind our house than ran into Kailua Bay. From the roof of our house, you could see Flat Island and if there was any whitewater around Flat Island, there were ridable waves. You had to climb a tree to get on the roof of our house and run down the length to get a good look. My father is 76 years old now and still complains that he could never sleep in on weekends because all my surfer friends were (loudly) running up and down our roof early every morning!

Any surfing honours, comp wins etc?
I entered 1 contest in the 60's and decided then that I wasn't a "contest surfer". Nothing wrong with contests, but they're just not for me.

Your fave board: quiver me timbers?
My favorite board at the moment is a Hammer 6'4" Quad fish with Future Vector VF T1 fins on it. Glassed heavy with a shallow single to double barrel concave towards the fins. The fastest board I've ever surfed on.


"Surfing is getting more popular in Ireland for sure". Discuss:
Surfing is getting more popular everywhere, especially the easy to get to breaks. We have some very good breaks here and some of the more popular spots get very crowded. Makes the dedicated go and search for their waves, Do your homework and maybe hike in to some spots at the right tide, with the right swell and wind direction and maybe get a few nuggets. I would rather surf a mediocre wave with my friends than a better wave with crowds and attitude. For me at this stage, surfing is all about having fun.

Most surf friendly pubs / gigs / eateries: as long as they serve Mexican beer and a lime.


Favourite Surfer/s and why:
My friends. I'm really lucky to know a good group of guys, who happen to be very good surfers too. I've been surfing with Gary "limpy" Allensworth since the 70's and Mark "Apu" Mekenarse" Mekenas since the early 90's-that's a lot of waves between us, but neither will loan me money!. Some of my friends are shortboarders some are longboarders, some in their 20's and some nearing 60. Some have professional occupations, some are tradesmen, some don't work at all, but the common thread is we surf together and have fun doing it. Surfing is what matters.

Best thing about surfing:
See Favorite Surfer above and surfing with my sons. I've met up with Limpy and his 2 sons in Mexico with my sons for some epic waves and adventures.

Your top music/reading/movies/tv/radio, surf or otherwise:
Lately, I've been listening to "The Gladiators-Live in Paris 1989" a lot.....too much, but a truly excellent cd. Currently reading, Mark Twain's "Following the Equator". I don't watch many movies (they end up watching me sleep). Listen to a lot of satellite radio, mellow acoustic stuff.


Any ambition as a surfer?
Surf more. It's funny, but the more I surf, the more I want to surf more.

Dream surf trip:
A uncrowded remote spot with a few friends and my kids, maybe on a boat.

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