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Name/Age:
Paul L. Riley 'Peobus', feeling old
Hometown: Rhode Island
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Home region: New England
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Quiver:
7' Hawaiian Moon Thruster; 6'6" Dave Levy Stub Fish; 9'6" Stewart Hydro-hull
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Surf wagon/vehicle? How do you get to the water?
'98 Ford Explorer
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Where/Why did you start surfing?
Dad taught brother and me in Hawaii back in '68.
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Best/Worst thing about surfing:
Best - Surfing Ike Island in Okinawa.
Worst - At Pipe in '83, having Jock Sutherland ask me if I was actually going to try to surf.
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Favourite Surfer(s) and why:
Pop, he's 76!
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Your fave board/quiver me timbers!:
6' Home-made Fish
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Advice for someone just starting:
Learn on an inside reform wave without a leash.
Advice for someone wanting to move on from newbie status:
Try to surf every day there are waves, regardless of winds.
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Tip on surviving the Irish winter:
Take a look at epic New England in January, air @ -4 , H2O @ +1
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Best/invaluable single bit of kit:
Wax
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Other kit tips:
Stop complaining or quit.
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What one way has surfing changed your life?
Keeps me fit and young at heart.
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