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How we made a wintry Four Peaks Sound Walk

Immerse yourself in the sound of Britain's highest peaks this winter on Radio 3

Horatio Clare's Four Peaks Sound Walk comes to Radio 3 and ´óÏó´«Ã½ Sounds in December 2021.

The Sound Walk is an immersive, slow radio experience capturing the sounds, sights and stories of the highest peaks in each of the four nations of the United Kingdom.

Here, Horatio gives us a behind-the-scenes glimpse of how the programmes were made.

Writer and broadcaster Horatio Clare grew up on a sheep farm in the hills of the Brecon Beacons, and is the author of 12 books, most recently, Heavy Light. His Sound Walks for Radio 3 include visits to The Wash, Lindisfarne, Hay-on-Wye, Winter Wanderer in a German forest, and Bach Walks – a recreation of the 20-year-old J S Bach's 250-mile journey to visit his hero Buxtehude in Lübeck.

Preparation for the climb

Our Sound Walks up the highest peaks of Scotland, Wales, England and Northern Ireland began at the foot of Ben Nevis.

At last light, knowing we were climbing tomorrow, balancing the risk of very high winds against the reward of capturing the sound and feeling of a dramatic ascent, we gazed up at a thunderous confusion of mountain, mist and darkness.

Engineer Andy Fell’s Sound Walk microphone rig is unrivalled for its ability to catch the beat of a raven’s wing, the fall of a rain drop, the wide spaces of the wild and my voice as I describe what we find, but it also affects his balance, catches gusts and would make a diabolically effective lightning conductor.

Ben Nevis

The cloud lifts for Horatio Clare at the summit of the mountain

Defying preconceptions

Producer Jeremy Evans compared forecasts of wind direction and speed, squinted up at the mist and consulted maps he had laminated. I was impressed by the lamination. If we were blown off an exposed ridge or tumbled over a cliff in fog no one would be able to say we were not well prepared.

We carried whistles, survival bags, head torches, food and first aid kits: Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike, Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) and Slieve Donard are all very well-known and well-walked peaks, but they are also mighty, untameable and wuthered by roaring winds. I had researched their natural and human histories for weeks but these mountains are reborn from one moment to the next, according to weather, season, the light and the instant. They defy preconception.

Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa)

Kinship in all weathers

The huge number of visitors the Four Peaks attract makes no difference to their combination of beauty, magnificence and menace.

Aiming to give listeners the richest possible sensory experience, and stories to transport, uplift and entertain, we wanted to approach Ben Nevis up a fearsome ridge called the Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête. An arête, I now know, is where a glacier takes a vicious bite out of a mountain and leaves a tingling edge of it hanging in space.

But with fog, mist and gales forecast, we chose the Pony Track, the main tourist path, where we met another kind of drama – human. We knew our peaks were popular, but until you see and join streams of fellow walkers, you cannot quite imagine it. Hundreds of people slogged up Ben Nevis in lines.

It was the same a few days later on Scafell Pike, in gusting wind and smacking rain. I love a walk in the wild but the surprise here was the joy of so many people doing something difficult and quixotic together.

Producer Jeremy Evans, presenter Horatio Clare and sound recordist Andy Fell

"Well done!" "Sorry!" "’Scuse me!" "Keep going – you’re nearly there!" The hills were alive with the sound of politeness, kindness, encouragement and good humour. Our appearance, me wearing a headset and carrying another microphone, and Andy with his sound-scooping set-up, caused much amusement.

Scafell Pike

Horatio Clare encounters strangers in the morning sun

Surprise and amazement

People began wishing us "Happy Christmas!" when they learned what we were up to. We met entire nations on the four mountains: people of every creed, colour, accent and background.

The solidarity among us all was inspirational. Despite the rain on Scafell (it was vile – I wished Jeremy had laminated me), the mist on Slieve Donard, the crowds on Ben Nevis and the blasts of weather on Snowdon, the mood on each mountain was happy. Despite blisters, sore legs and fatigue, people’s spirits were palpably light.

Each peak held gifts of surprise and amazement.

Presenter Horatio Clare and sound recordist Andy Fell on Scafell Pike

A salute across the sea

On Ben Nevis the cloud cleared when we reached the summit, so that we broke through to a new world in the sky.

Harmonious, complimentary and beautiful, Snowdonia, the Lakes, the hills of Galloway and the Mountains of Mourne salute each other across the sea.

On Scafell Pike we crossed ghylls, ravines which plunge savagely down, as migrating geese called to one another, invisible to us in the cloud above.

Slieve Donard rises straight from Dundrum Bay, County Down; travelling there on a ferry from Scotland revealed an archipelago of hills and coasts which reflect and mirror each other.

Harmonious, complimentary and beautiful, Snowdonia, the Lakes, the hills of Galloway and the Mountains of Mourne salute each other across the sea.

Majesty and beauty, captured on tape

Snowdon, the most visited, proved the most evasive. We postponed twice, once for lightning, once for cloud, and started at the foot in darkness, hoping we would meet more than mist.

As it grew light and we climbed higher, the mountains around looked like dark jumbled clouds and the sky above brightened and shoaled in brief waves of colour. At the top we crossed the arête of Bwlch Main, where two back-to-back glaciers have left a stipple of rocks like a bridge across the sky. It was dizzying and tremendous.

We were so struck by the drops and views on either side that we had no idea, until afterwards, if we had captured such majesty and beauty on tape. But if you listen, you can hear the height, the space and, we hope, the perspective of the high peaks.

Dawn on Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa)

Horatio Clare experiences the mountain at dawn

´óÏó´«Ã½ Radio 3’s Four Peaks Sound Walk is broadcast on ´óÏó´«Ã½ Radio 3 on the afternoons of 25, 26, 27 & 28 December

Search for Four Peaks Sound Walk on ´óÏó´«Ã½ Sounds.

Four Peaks Sound Walk