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by Bruno Loubet from Mange Tout (Ebury Press)

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Rack, leg, shoulder & sometimes lamb shank are the cuts you will commonly find in cookbooks but breast is rarely used.Ìý I’ve decided to buck the trend.Ìý I think we should learn to cook with products that are not so common on our supermarket shelves.Ìý After all, we should remember that as consumers, we are the ones creating the demand for products.Ìý Like many chefs, I feel I have a duty to respect the food chain to preserve it for future generations & making the most of the whole animal is part of that.Ìý Our modern world is all about convenience:Ìý fine cuts are easier to butcher but they command higher prices.Ìý Because they’re so tender, there’s less time & effort involved in the cooking, which is a fair argument but we pay the price in the long run.Ìý And it does not actually mean they are better – often they are not as tasty.Ìý Lamb breast is now available in shops. Create & support the demand by trying new cuts.Ìý You may find new favourites in the process.

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Serves 4

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Prep time 20 mins

Cooking time 3hrs

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Ingredients

700g lamb breast, bone removed, rolled & tied (ask your butcher to do this for you)

1 tbsp sumac

3 tbsp mango chutney

1 tsp fennel seeds, toasted & crushed

1 tsp grated orange zest

1 aubergine, sliced crossways

1 large onion, finely sliced

3 garlic cloves, crushed

8 sprigs of fresh thyme

salt & black pepper

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Method

1.ÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌý Preheat the oven to 195C/ 175C fan/ Gas 5½.

2.ÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌý Cut the string & open the breast of lamb, season lightly on both sides with the sumac, salt & pepper.Ìý Spread the mango chutney on one side, sprinkle over the fennel seeds & orange zest, then roll the breast up again tightly.Ìý Tie it with string to hold it firmly, then roll in a 40cm piece of foil.

3.ÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌý Place the roll in an ovenproof dish & pour 300ml of water into the bottom of the dish. ÌýPlace in the oven & cook for 3hrs, turning it every 30 mins, so that it cooks evenly.

4.ÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌý Meanwhile, salt the aubergine, place in a colander & leave to rest for 20 mins.Ìý Rinse with cold water, then heat a cast-iron griddle. Grill the aubergine slices on both sides, until marked with char lines & tender.Ìý Place the aubergine under the lamb after 2½ hrs of cooking, with the onion, garlic & thyme sprigs, & leave to cook for the remainder of the cooking time.

5.ÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌý To serve, open the foil over the dish to preserve the juices.Ìý Remove the foil & place the lamb over the aubergine again.Ìý Cut off the strings & discard.

6.ÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌýÌý Slice the lamb breast & serve with the aubergines & onions, spooning the juices over.