´óÏó´«Ã½

Every year in May, thousands of Gypsies and travelling people from across Europe converge on the small French town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to venerate their enigmatic patron saint, Sara-la-Kali, or Black Sara.

Sara-la-Kali is not an official saint of the Catholic Church, but her name has become linked to the two Mary's after whom this town is named. Mary Salome and Mary Jacobe are mentioned in the Gospels as mothers of Jesus’s apostles and are said to have brought Christianity to this part of France. In keeping with her unofficial status, Sara-la-Kali’s statue is kept in the crypt of the impressive medieval parish church, while the two Marys’ relics take pride of place in the High Chapel above the altar.

Tessa Dunlop joins the pilgrims to find out more about Sara-la-Kali’s origins and how she came to be linked with the Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer story. She discovers that there are different stories about where Sara came from, and it’s this mystery that’s so appealing to the Gypsies, whose own origins have been the subject of speculation over the centuries.

One local resident and worshipper, Martine Guillot, tells Tessa that for her, Sara is an icon of love and welcome and worshipping with the travellers strengthens her own faith.

But not all the residents of this small town are happy to see the caravans roll into town. As the travellers make camp, bars and shops close down, fearful of the unrest that has been a feature of the festival in previous years. Tessa also explores the views of the town’s long serving Mayor, Roland Chassain, a friend and member of the same political party as the former President, Nicolas Sarkozy, who in 2010 was criticized by the European Union for his expulsion of Roma Gypsies from France.

As she follows Sara-la-Kali down to the beach where she is ritually immersed in the waters of the Mediterranean, Tessa is caught up in the Gypsies’ devotion to Sara, a constant icon for these people whose outsider status is reflected in their adored saint.