大象传媒

Mavericks is a legendary Californian surf break where waves can reach the height of a six-storey building. Surfer Sarah Gerhardt describes walking out into the waves for the first time and her sense of feeling completely overwhelmed. She conquered her fears though and became the first woman to surf there. 'The way it feels to be riding on a wave is sort of the way it would feel to be flying like a bird.'

Image: Surfer Sarah Gerhardt Credit: Nikki Brooks