Nigella and Delia have taught us how to cook delicious food and run the perfect kitchen - but now听it's time for the backlash against the domestic goddess.
Do we really need to spend all day shopping at Italian-style delis for cold-pressed olive oil fresh from Umbria, or can we make do perfectly well with sliced bread and a sandwich toaster?听
Victoria Isherwood听stands up for the slatterns and Ruth Rogers of the River Cafe restaurant fights the clean corner. Jenni umpires.
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