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Out and about with England (by coincidence)

Martin Gough | 01:50 UK time, Wednesday, 28 March 2007

Martin GoughGuyana – One way or the other, all of the advice in the last couple of days has been that I should leave Georgetown, so I did just that on Tuesday, taking the 130-mile flight south to the .

To say they are five times as big as those at Niagara, to recount that the depth of the single drop is 741 feet – one of the largest in the world – and even to highlight that about 23,400 cubic feet of water per second comes crashing over is to do them an injustice.

The best thing about Kaieteur is that the area is almost completely unspoilt, visited by around 4,000 people a year, who either fly in the sort of 15-seater aircraft we used to land at a tiny airstrip, or climb from the valley of the Potaro River.

Kaieteur Falls
Legend, and our guide Laurence, has it the falls were named for Kai, an Amerindian chief, who acted to save his people by paddling over the falls as a sacrifice to Makonaima, the great spirit.

Laurence took us on a scramble through the surrounding national park, which offered the chance to experience the rainforest canopy of the Amazon – and no, I didn’t realise it stretched into Guyana either.

The flight was almost as spectacular, with views of the Essequibo River and vast swathes of rainforest, which covers over 80% of the country’s 83,000 square miles.

As we came back into Georgetown, nearing dusk, I got a first view of the , which crosses the river next to the National Stadium, where take strike on Wednesday morning.

And while we are on the subject of cricket, there was a surprise in store when the rest of our tour party turned up for the flight.

We wondered why the soldiers manning the tiny airstrip had looked so excited when we arrived, waving Guyanese flags, and so disappointed when we got out of our minibus. We also wondered why our departure was put back, at the last minute, by two hours.

It turned out to be the boys from Big Chef’s Steak House, and I had come without my false moustache and dark glasses.

When we landed, there were people with video cameras. β€œMichael Vaughan, England captain!” someone shouted in my direction. I was quite chuffed by the comparison, until I realised that Michael Vaughan, England captain was standing just behind me.

Everywhere we went, people asked the same question: β€œWhere is Andrew Flintoff?” and it would have taken a cruel wit to suggest he was paddling down the river on his own.

In fact, Freddie took the trip three years ago, when for a one-day international.

Too often, international sportsmen are criticised for sealing themselves in hotel rooms and ignoring the world outside so it was good to see them out and about, although perhaps they weren’t saying the same about a bunch of journalists.

°δ΄Η³Ύ³Ύ±π²Τ³Ω²υΜύΜύPost your comment

  • 1.
  • At 06:16 AM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • Carlton Lobo wrote:

Everywhere we went, people asked the same question: β€œWhere is Andrew Flintoff?” and it would have taken a cruel wit to suggest he was paddling down the river on his own.

-- Nice one, really funny Martin, laughed my head off!

  • 2.
  • At 09:37 AM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • Eric wrote:

Tsk tsk tsk, Mr Gough, for citing Wikipedia as a source for anything. The ΄σΟσ΄«Γ½ should know better than that...

  • 3.
  • At 10:17 AM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • Richard Appleyard wrote:

Eric, #2. Wikipedia is not 'cited as a source' you donut. It's simply provided as a link for further, quick info about the subject. He's not suggesting you go away and write a thesis on the Demerara Harbour Bridge based on the article. Lighten up.

  • 4.
  • At 01:05 PM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • Trevor Whiteside wrote:

Shouldn't 'paddling' be 'peddling', or don't they have pedaloes in Guyana?

  • 5.
  • At 01:34 PM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • nerina wrote:

Nice to read a positive comment about Guyana. Shame the ΄σΟσ΄«Γ½ commentators on the evening highlights programme referred to it as a carribbean country yet again....another wrong fact stated. Its boarders Brazil.....thats SOUTH AMERICA!!!!

  • 6.
  • At 03:32 PM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • nicosia smith wrote:


Hi Martin

I am a Guyanese journalist and it is my view that your opinions were not far from the truth.
Although, I do agree that research on Guyana would have prepared you for what you eventually saw. Please do not let the newspaper articles in one section of our press daunt you, you have a right to your views, and my only advice will be, when visiting a country you have never visited before - do some research.
And after your official stay in Guyana is completed, please come back some other time.

  • 7.
  • At 03:40 PM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • Stairs wrote:

Glad you enjoyed your trip.

Brought about by the unique way the ΄σΟσ΄«Γ½ is funded!

Up the fee!

  • 8.
  • At 03:53 PM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • david wrote:

Nice story, Martin. Glad to see you made it out to Kaiteur. Keep sharing your experiences.

During colonial times, I think a British soldier tried to swim across the river near the falls. It was only by the grace of the vegetation that he had something to grasp so he wasn't swept over.

Ok, my fellow Guyanese let us keep participating in the blog and not only to react to any perceived slights.

  • 9.
  • At 07:52 PM on 28 Mar 2007,
  • Nick wrote:

It is really good to see that Guyana is gettng media attention out of the world cup. Kaiteur is a great place that people should visit if they are in the Caribean. And by the way, Guyana is part of Caricom (the Caribean version of the EU), is the only English speaking South American country and is the only cricket playing South American country. Ask any Guyanese persion if it is a Caribean country and I reckon they will normally say it is.

  • 10.
  • At 12:57 AM on 29 Mar 2007,
  • Roy Beepat wrote:

It is usually a good idea to learn a little about a Country and its people before publishing such a disparaging report about it. As a Guyanese I am also ashamed of the incompetence which our officials have handled our preparation of the hosting of such a major event. However Guyana's (the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere) strength has always been in its natural beauty and people’s hospitality as you have started to show in your latter article. I hope your views of our Country changes somewhat before your departure and the days ahead are spent enjoying the positives we have to offer, such as the finest rum in the world, our pristine rain forest, our numerous unoccupied Islands , to name a few which makes our country so uniquely different.

  • 11.
  • At 03:32 AM on 29 Mar 2007,
  • Jomo wrote:

Well Martin,

I hope you are enjoying yourself and not letting others influence your opinion which we all appreciate. It is good to hear about the very good and bad about places, and I do hope you make the front page of "Kaiteur News" again with this wonderful blog of the majestic Kaiteur.

The Flintoff stuff is really funny!!

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