Take a trip on the train
Most of us, when travelling by train, rarely look outside the windows of our carriage. We bury our heads in our book or newspaper and only glance up to confirm our station has appeared. But a whole world of history is lurking out there and, if we only knew it, there is more than enough to keep us interested, whichever route we take.
The stretch of line from Llanelli to Carmarthen has to be one of the most beautiful lengths of railway line in the kingdom. It is also one that has so much history just lying alongside the train track, waiting to be discovered by the perceptive and interested train traveller.
Start with itself. Opened in 1852, this is an -designed station building. The line was, of course, part of Brunel's wonderful railway - that has stone buildings with beautiful sandstone surrounds.
In its heyday the station had connecting lines for London, Pontardulais and for Shrewsbury. Even now this is the place to come if you are planning a trip on the , another exquisite and enchanting railway journey.
The town of , well visible from the train, was an industrial community - steel and the making of saucepans (hence Sospan Fach, the rugby song) - but these days it has re-branded itself as something of a tourist centre.
Cycling, walking and top quality golf are all available. And the is now in possession of its new stadium at the eastern edge of the town.
Once Llanelli is left behind, the train passes through 12 miles of the . The line follows the gentle curving arc of , so close to the beach and estuary that it sometimes seems as if the train might easily topple into the sea. When the wind is up expect spray to mottle the windows - when it's calm the views out to Gower are spectacular.
was once a centre for the export of coal; now it houses a marina. There were a couple of canals here, serving mines a little way inland and, in 1852, the was opened - all long gone now, of course.
Next comes Pembrey Country Park. It houses the National Motorsport Centre of Wales but this area was originally the site of RAF Pembrey, a fighter base in World War Two
.The aerodrome was the centre of an exciting episode in 1943 when a landed and was captured intact. The pilot apparently believed he was landing in France.
The quay at was once a very busy port. In the 16th and 17th centuries ships of up to 400 tons berthed there on a regular basis but the growth of Burry Port, after the construction of its harbour in 1838, ended Kidwelly's importance.
The town's imposing Norman castle sits adjacent to the river and is still a spectacular sight. Built around 1106, it dominates the town. This was one of the earliest Norman settlements in south Wales, English and Flemish farmers and wool merchants being brought in to transplant the native Welsh.
sits alongside the estuary and the views across to Llansteffan are magnificent. , on the hill above the estuary, is another Norman fortress but one that was later turned into a country house by the Tudors.
And so to Carmarthen town itself. This was reputedly the birthplace of the magician and there are those who say it was actually the site of Camelot.
The run into the station is lovely, crossing the and with the bridge where Dylan Thomas' story "A Visit to Grandpa's" comes to an end, waiting ahead of you.
The line from Llanelli to Carmarthen is a wonderful experience for anyone with the heart and soul to appreciate beauty and history.
There are many other rail routes - the Heart of Wales line, the trip down the west coast past - in Wales but I think you would be hard pressed to better this atmospheric and enchanting piece of railway architecture.
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Comment number 1.
At 9th Aug 2010, Robert Nisbet wrote:Yes, it is indeed a superb stretch of railway and environs and yes, I particularly like that view from Ferryside across the grey stretch of water to Llansteffan. You get an interesting view if you ever go to Llansteffan too of course, out across the bay to the seemingly tiny train trundling through Ferryside.
In fact though it's a celebrated line going on down, past Carmarthen and on to Haverfordwest, Neyland and Pembroke/ Pembroke Dock. (Neyland was originaly the end of the line of course, pre- Dr. Beeching - you would get trains leaving Paddington with simply "Neyland" on their destination boards.) And the line is of course so slow - in the 50s and 60s a full two hours for the 60 miles from Swansea. There's a famous story about a former Pembrokeshire MP, Desmond Donnelly, who was leaving on a trade mission to China apparently, and commented, as his train passed over Loughor Bridge, "Well, thank God, that's the worst of the journey over".
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Comment number 2.
At 10th Aug 2010, Peter Williams wrote:Surely,it is Pontarddulais, not Pontardulais? Peter N. Williams, Newark, De., USA
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Comment number 3.
At 10th Aug 2010, Robert Nisbet wrote:The present-day spelling is indeed "Pontarddulais" but I had taken Phil's article as referring to the station connecting with Llanelli in Llanelli's "heyday", at which time it would have been spelled "Pontardulais". For that matter of course Llanelli would have been spelled "Llanelly" ... !
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