Early morning surf at Rest Bay
For some reason - the quieter I try to be, the more noise I end up making! I blame the creaky stairs...
A quick look out of the window and I could confirm the wind was offshore - south easterly which in the surfing world is excellent news. I attach a little waterproof camera to my board to record my sessions for posterity:
It means the waves are held up slightly by wind blowing off the land and out to sea which means you get longer rides and occasional tube rides if the waves are nice and hollow.
A friend of mine was already at the beach and confirmed 3ft lines coming through and with the tide on the push, things could only get better.
The se wind was a little bit chilly first thing, especially when donning a cold, wet wetsuit...brrrr. I can almost sympathise with those Russian ice swimmers.
But the sight of perfect waves and blue skies above made me dig deep and slide into that cold, damp suit in record time.
It's high time someone invented quick drying neoprene though.
Two hours later and fatigue and cold water had finally taken their toll and I was falling off more waves than I was catching!
So it was a quick dash home for a hot shower and then into work.
Is there a better way to start the day? Not for me.
What about you?
Gull
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