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15 October 2014
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Italy '43-44, Part 1

by Kevin

Contributed by听
Kevin
People in story:听
L.W GIBSON, RAF.
Location of story:听
ITALY
Background to story:听
Royal Air Force
Article ID:听
A3716363
Contributed on:听
25 February 2005

RAF Dec 1943 鈥 Sept 1944

This document is a 鈥榯ranslation鈥 of part of two diaries kept by AC Gibson, RAF, during the period of December 1943 to the last entry in September 1944. It deals with his observations and experiences in the Italian Campaign during World War II.
The entries were in a fine 鈥榗opperplate鈥 hand and were, at times, hard to read. I have inserted asterisks where I was in doubt as to the word or words written.

They were obtained from Ecton Recycling Centre, Northampton, in 1996. The originals, together with other items, have been donated to the Royal Air Force Museum, Hendon.

Kevin Jon Parry

TORREGAVERTA, (Nr Naples) Dec 鈥43 [Identified as 鈥淭orregaveta鈥- KJP]
Dec 8th
Our new site (Torregaverta) is on headland overlooking Naples bay, from the North. It is very pleasant, giving fine views of the bay, with Island of Ischia opposite the headland & Vesuvius in background, on South side of the bay. The dawns & sunsets often quite beautiful. The headland is terraced & covered with 鈥榯rue鈥 vines, now bare & being pruned. The vines grow 8 鈥 10ft high & are trained & tied (by the pruned branches) to stout stakes. The peasant when pruning, sticks his ladder in the ground. The tree & stake are not strong enough to support him. Many peasant 鈥渉ovels鈥 (supposed to be houses) are scattered over headland. Very poor places & teeming with children. Blass (?) are grown in between the vines & these & all kinds of veg. Seedlings are advanced now as in Blighty in mid May. We got plenty of rain, but **** nice warm 鈥渟pring like鈥 sunny days in between. Frosts here are a rarity & we have hardly any cold days. Of course it is colder in the hills (can see snow clad mts in North (& fellows joining us from Bari say it is very cold on the Adriatic coast. See lots of glow-worms here. Our billet, (formerly flats: - we turned people out. Yet it (some of these families now live across in smaller house) is pleasantly situated. Our room with small balcony overlooking sea & coastline going North very pleasant view, also includes Ischia & hills inland. In little cove below see motor ferry coming & going to Ischia. The electric railway connects with the ferry & runs to Naples, via Pozzurdi, Bara etc. etc. all along the coast. Surprisingly there are (or were- badly knocked about by our bombing) quite a lot of aircraft munitions factories (large ones) along coast between Torregaverta & Naples. One was Vickers Armstrong subsidiary. Usual thing, armament works are an International racket supply *** interests both sides. Dreadful scandal. Many fishing are in bay at night. Showing lights 鈥 so to attract fish? The catch is sold on the beach & goes by the train to Napoli: Mostly sardines. A few whiting- -Swordfish & saw one small octopus.
Trip to Vesuvius Dec 鈥43
This was most interesting made since leaving home. We went by Gharry to Naples along coast road. First trip by road from Torregaverta. The coast road in parts gives splendid views of bay & small coves- quite beautiful in places. However Bain, Pozzuoli, are pretty poor squalid towns. One or two fairly decent Hotels in Puzzuoli: may have looked better in peace time with houses etc. with cleaner paint, but at best places pretty squalid. A road climbs up Vesuvius is within 4/500ft of the summit. We were very lucky, because the volcano was actually erupting. First time in 10yrs. There is an explosion every five minutes or so & a shower of red hot burning cinders is thrown up 20 or 30ft & they come showering down the sides of the crater. Some of these pieces are 2 by 1ft in size. A good deal of the showers fall back into the crater & the rest almost completely tumbles down three sides of the crater, so that you can climb up to the very summit & just keep a 鈥渨eather eye鈥 open for the occasional stray piece which falls on this side. Actually, when you reach the summit you are on the edge of a formed saucer shaped crater about 20/30ft in diameter. The other side of which is edge of actual crater. When not in eruption, you can stand on actual edge of crater. Asking one guide what the crater looked like 鈥 he replied, 鈥淗ell鈥. In many places on side of the crater, one gets strong sulphur fumes, which steam out of crevasses. Putting ones hand over these crevasses is found to be very hot, somewhat like putting ones hand into a red-hot oven. The climb up the last 100ft or so is over the hard lava from the formation of which you can see that it was originally in liquid form. The guides dash after the hot molten cinders as they fall & stick in coins, before it sets & sell pieces for 11** each. After this is done, one can light a cigarette from the coin. Vesuvius is really extraordinary sight: would not have missed it for the 鈥榳orld鈥. From summit when V stops smoking, then it may be dangerous. We got grand views of Naples & bay.

La Boheme Dec 28th at S. Carlos, Naples
First class performance in every way. Surprising no overture. No smoking of course & at the end of intervals lights go out (no warning) & then on again for four minutes. The singing was first class- especially Marian. Acting very good- especially the crowd scenes outside 1nn in 2nd Act. The 鈥榗rowds鈥 walked about very naturally, including a number of children- good idea this- never seen this before. The scenery was excellent- both Inn, street & attic scenes. In fact it was a very fine performance in every way. I鈥檓 told (did not see one) that in many of village houses there are large Xmas mangers made of ***. In some small rooms it fills up half the room.
Naples 28/12
Revised very slightly my impressions. There are a number of wide, well built streets. E.g. the Corso Umberto I leading to Piazza Garibaldi, in which stands the main railway station. In this street is part of the University, the large hall of which is used as C of E troop church. This road leads into another wide thoroughfare, which leads into the Municipal Square & round by Castle Nesovo & by the back of Palace & by *** of San Carlos. On this particular day from the Municipal Piazza, Vesuvius, smoking faintly in the distance, seemed to overshadow the port station & whole bay looked beautiful. There is no doubt in peace time, coming from England in winter & finding nice warm spring weather here, Naples, if staying at good Hotel, could be quite pleasant. Opera, Sorrento- A****- Vesuvius, Pompeii, Capri etc. to visit- Would be quite pleasant. Would prefer to stay in Sorrento & do trips from there.
On RRO鈥檚 today (29th) it is stated the Jerries are organising the prostitutes & pimps to spread VD. There is certainly terrific amount in Naples. More than any other place yet visited by Allied troops. Think that possibly Yankee troops now banned from Naples for that & now Typhus. There are of course a lot of troops billeted in Naples & we are billeted 10 miles away and are not barred yet.

Bari
Not visited, but told by new fellows on unit. They have 70 strong orchestra- supported by State & Bari State Broadcasting Co. It is modern town- best this fellow had seen. More modern, but not so interesting as Naples, but with less 鈥榮lums鈥. The Adriatic coast is flat & much less beautiful than the west coast & very much colder.
Vesuvius
Told Etna does not erupt as Vesuvius, but smokes- have seen it. Etna 10,000ft for Vesuvius 3,00ft.
Termac
Jan 鈥44. We now go to Termac for hot baths. These are hot waters containing various salts from hot springs from one time volcano at Puzzuoli. Pre-war, this Hotel was visited especially for these 鈥榤edicated鈥 baths & there are several large wings of hotel- all bath rooms. These are first rate- very enjoyable- only a little snug. Difficult to get a good lather with salts in the water. The rest of the Hotel (which is on the sea front) is used for rest camp for RAF on seven days leave from 329 Wing.
San Carlos
Heard Lucia de Lamm**** 1/1/44- Very fine production- the Coloratura Amelia Remey was marvellous- understand she has sung at the Berlin State Opera House. The scenery was exceptionally good- wonderful sky effect- gave idea of looking great distance- blue with stars & moving cloud, very realistic. Remembered the songs we have on record at home of Swain-Gilge etc. Thoroughly enjoyed it- the famous sextet was fairly sung & also duet in the first scene. The opera contains some grand melodies in true 鈥業talian鈥 style including a fine coloratura with flute obligato- foolish to attempt this unless one is a tip top singer.
On the 2/1/44 heard La Boheme at 10am & orchestral concert including Pruistonoff playing Tchaikovsky鈥檚 Opus 23 for orchestra pianoforte. Really fine performance. The night before, 1/1/44, whilst awaiting the gharry, after 鈥楲ucia鈥 heard part of Pouishnoff鈥檚 concert- He played B鈥檚 鈥渕oonlight鈥 grandly- & also started the New Year well for music, Eh?
After La Boheme in the morning, a lot of the chorus- men & women, came into the same restaurant as the one (Giacomini- nearly opposite S. Carlos) we were patronising & were all with make up on- vivacious, as we would expect- looked 2nd rate house type. Wonder if cold area is short of facilities at Theatre owing to who was in, or if this is usual practice. Wonder!
2/1/44
The snow-capped Mts look very beautiful in the distance from our billet at Torregaverta. On 2/1/44 when in Naples, surprised to see snow on Vesuvius- it is only 3,000ft & thought it would be too warm from the volcano for it to lay- however, do not think it could stay long & noticed next day it had nearly melted. However, next day 5/1/44, the summit covered again & looked thicker layers. On 6/1/44 it was sunny but cold. Rough sea & bitter wind. As cold as Blighty- pools of water in street with covering of ice.
Almafi & Capri
Told by the men, that these places are really beautiful. Hope to visit on leave very shortly. Almafi is perched on cliffs, rising sheer from the sea- similar to Clovelly.
[Identified as Clovelly, North Devon, UK. See About links
]
Vesuvius
Jan 7th- 10th is in eruption- at night you can see the usual red glow very much larger than normal & also see it extending down one side of the summit.
Traviata
Did not hear, but understand it was particularly good- splendid scenery & marvellous soprano. Suvaresse- of Milan State Opera & understand he had sung at Covent Garden. The tenor missed one or two high C鈥檚 & audience quietly hissed. Possibly to let him know they noticed same. Also audience were pretty demonstrative with their applause.
Pompeii
Re the bright coloured paintings, of which the colours are still very vivid, read recently in Union Jack that these were painted on the wet plaster & so became part of the wall. This is explanation of their lasting brightness.
Rigoletto
31/1/44. Today & often recently, since Typhus prevented us from visiting Naples, listen to Radio Napoli, which broadcasts every afternoon from the Opera House in San Carlo. Very good & after duet at end of IV Act applause tremendous- 鈥楤ravo!鈥 & stamping of feet & then 鈥楨ncore!鈥
Pumice Stone
Found on beach at Torregaverta- thought this was lava from Vesuvius, but now doubt it. Also on beach see man & boy collecting different shell-fish, which are often part of lunch at Napoli restaurants- never had any- looks a slimy mess.
Naples Bay
Dec & Jan 鈥43 & 鈥44. From our technical site, we get a really splendid view of the bay. Doing 24hrs duties, we see the bay at all times of the day- dawn, sunset, moonlight etc. Also over a period of 3 months, see it in all weathers- sunshine, mist, snow on Vesuvius & snow on distant Apennines & Mts behind Sorrento. Occasionally with sun tipping snow capped Mts, the distant Mts are a grand sight. Many of these views of Naples Bay are very beautiful.

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