大象传媒

On arrival at Conakry AIR FRANCE 4 tied up to a jetty but no-one was allowed ashore until Black troops with fixed bayonets arrived. A couple of motor vans then came along. We all clambered in and were taken to a Native camp 7 kms out of Conakry. On arrival here we were all searched and many questions were asked but they got little satisfaction from any of us. On arrival we were surprised to find that a number of officers and men of the VULCAIN were being held here, having landed on the French Coast in lifeboats from their torpedoed ship. One or two of us went to talk to them over the barbed wire but were quickly stopped.

Our first meal consisted of about two tablespoonfuls of sweet potato, saturated with a vinegary substance, and half a cupful of rice water. Very few of the men tackled this wonderful diet in spite of the fact that we had eaten nothing since that morning, and it was now 6 p.m. After this we were all chased into the grass huts by native guards who were armed with fixed bayonets.

Next morning at daylight we were lined up for roll-call and were surprised to find native soldiers enclosing the few huts we inhabited with barbed wire. We were now separated from the VULCAIN crew to whom we were forbidden to talk. However, plenty of talking did take place. The grass huts we now used were about 18 feet diameter and about the same shape as a large bell-tent. A raised platform around the circumference extended inwards about 6 feet, and 2' 6" off the ground, except where cut away for the entrance. A pole in the centre supported the grass roof; we averaged about ten men per hut. In our little isolated encampment our only recreation was a walk - two men abreast on a narrow path about 20 yards long which ran between the huts. This path sloped upwards and at the top trenches were dug - these were intended to be used as latrines. There was no privacy whatever and the trenches were overlooked from the road, only a few yards from the other side of the barbed wire. When the tropical rains started one has no need to use one's imagination to understand our plight, for the water and sewage swept down past the huts.

Our drinking water was contained in a 40-gallon oil-drum, with the top cut out. No cover was provided for it and mosquitoes could breed by the million around this swamp. This naturally contaminated the drinking-water.

Once a day, usually after roll-call in the morning we were marched out of our huts to a few taps where we were expected to wash in a few minutes. This had to last us for the next 24 hours.

The French Red Cross representative was forbidden to visit us and a European banana planter who threw a stalk of bananas over to us was reputed to have been sentenced to six weeks' imprisonment. We did not attribute our bad treatment to the Military Authorities but directly to the Governor of Conakry and the Commissary of Police. The Military only guarded us, and the Police were responsible for the bad feeding and conditions in general.

Half our men were down with Malaria or Dysentery. Twice a week the Military doctor visited the camp and it was plain to him that if we were left under these conditions few men would pull through. The ambulance came daily to take men to Conakry Hospital. Although I was fortunate enough to escape being an inmate of this hospital, nothing but praise can be given for the kindness shown by the medical staff. They did everything in their power to persuade the Police to have us moved to a more suitable place.

After about two weeks at this camp another Merchant crew arrived. They were the crew of the Greek PANDIAS. These men were in a pitiable condition having spent many days in lifeboats, and many of them were too weak to walk. They were put into the adjoining compound with the VULCAIN crew; and we all lived under the same incredible conditions. After we had been there six weeks those of the VULCAIN and PANDIAS who were fit to travel were repatriated; the remainder, with the crew of the CRITON who were not in hospital, were transferred to another camp. Our new home proved to be a native school-building on the outskirts of Conakry. Here we had iron beds and mattresses; but a few minutes in them proved that we were not alone. The mattresses were then taken away to be fumigated but were returned in the same condition so we mostly used a straw mat over the bare wires.

The food here was similar to that in our previous camp - two meals a day - consisting mainly of rice and sweet potato or spinach - very little meat. We had now a well in the grounds, and plenty of walking room - two distinct advantages - but sanitary conditions remained the same and still no privacy, the trenches still being overlooked from the road. One afternoon two European girls cycled several times past the camp, waiting until the native guard had his back turned, and when this happened they hurriedly pushed through the railings a cake wrapped in a large cloth and two cartons containing 1,000 cigarettes in all. They then hurried away as quickly as possible. Considering this act of kindness was performed only a short time after the episode of the banana planter, it certainly tended to show that we had someone on our side. From time to time we had visits from high officials and complaints were made by the score. About the second week in September the remainder of the crews of the VULCAIN and PANDIAS were repatriated, with the exception of two men who at that time were too sick to travel. The CRITON crew remained.

On September 25th a large party of native convicts arrived; sticks were cut and screens were erected around the latrines. Each man was given a mosquito net and posts were erected from which to hang them. The compound was neatly swept and the native guards were busy and put through their paces - practising the presenting of arms smartly. At five o'clock that evening we were told to be ready to leave the camp at 5 a.m. the next day. Each man was given 50 francs and a topee. We hoped this would mean repatriation but understood from the Police that we were being moved to another camp although, according to them, our destination was unknown. Our native guards all thought that we were to be released.

A number of the CRITON crew were in hospital and quite unfit to travel. The remainder of us left Conakry at 6 a.m. for an unknown destination. On arrival at the station we were introduced to the third-class carriages on this narrow gauge railway. One very small tin of corned beef was the ration for two men and bottles of water were put on the train. In spite of all the discomfort of these native coaches the trip proved interesting. The engines use wood-fueI, and when the wind is in a certain direction sparks from the engine are found to have burned large holes in one's shirt.

Soon after we left Conakry station we were told that we were going as far as Kan Kan - the terminus of the railway - and that it would take us two days. No other information was at present available. The train stopped at every station for water or wood and the line winds its way between the mountains of High Guinea, and the scenery in places, especially the great falls and through the mountain pass at this point, is more like a scenic railway. When the train arrived at Kindia we all dismounted and for a few francs bought some native rice cakes; we then opened our tin of corned beef and had our first meal of the day. It was now about mid-day. Half an hour later our journey commenced again, the train still stopping at every station. About 6.30 p.m. we arrived at Mamu. We were all ready for a wash and another meal. It was now getting dark; we were taken out of the train and marched to some sidings just outside the station. Here two large trucks with sliding doors (such as are used for cattle in this country) were to be our shelter for the night. The meal arrived. It was quite good but far too inadequate, and the last to be served had hardly anything at all. After a great deal of shouting the guards brought us water for washing. One gallon had to suffice for the 25 of us. We then got into the vans and tried to get a little sleep. The guards were ordered to close the sliding doors on us but after much argument they were left half-open. The next morning about 5 o'clock we were lined up for a count and each man had a very small measure of coffee. We then arranged ourselves in our old carriages and started on the second part of our journey as it was just breaking light. The sparks from the engine burnt holes in our clothes. No rations were issued to us for this part of the journey. The Commissary of Police at Mamu being a particularly nasty piece of Vichy work considered us the equivalent of cattle. It would please me greatly to meet some of these men in civil life.

The second half of our journey was not very interesting as far as scenery was concerned. At each station as before the engine must collect water and wood. We were told that on arrival at one of the larger stations about mid-day we could expect a good meal, but to our disgust we found that the Commissary of Police at Mamu had purposely failed to make arrangements by telephone. Therefore, with the promise of a meal further up the line we all piled into the train again. When we arrived at the next large station about 2 p.m. there was still no meal prepared. Two tins of sardines were obtained from somewhere and we had half a sardine each. We managed to get a few tomatoes from the natives on the platform but could obtain no rice cakes so had to make the best of a bad job.

Shortly after 2.30 p.m. we started on the last stage of our journey to Kan Kan. About 6.30 that evening we arrived. You can imagine that by this time we were ready for a decent meal. The Commissary of Police at Kan Kan did his best for us, and for the first time since our internment we were treated as white men; we tasted our first European meal and had plenty of it. We were all able to get a good bath under an engine hydrant at the station. That night we slept along the plush seats of first-class carriages and had electric fans working all night. Those who were not fortunate enough to get into a 1st or 2nd class compartment were provided with a proper bed and mattress. As the coaches were required for their return journey we had to rise about 4 a.m.

At 6 o'clock in the morning we all had a drink of coffee and after roll-call each man was given a bread and beef sandwich. We were then told that our destination was Bamako and that it would take two or three days by lorry according to the state of the roads. Up to now we had not experienced this mode of travel. Two lorries arrived and each was loaded to capacity with bags of charcoal, oil-drums, Kola nut, and finally ourselves on top. No attempt was made to erect an awning as only occasionally does a European travel in this way, and then there is ample room in the cabin next to the driver. All the lorries use charcoal and when going up-hill the engine very frequently stalls. A native in the rear of the lorry keeps handy a large block of wood in order to wedge the back wheels, as the brakes are none too reliable. A few kilometres out of Kan Kan we made our first stop and a few more bags of charcoal were acquired. (Charcoal is a very cheap form of fuel in that country; plenty of wood is obtainable on the spot - also plenty of native labour - and only a very crude form of plant is required to produce this kind of fuel.)

We all got out of the lorries - just a few more bags of charcoal to sit upon - then in again and our journey properly commenced. In many places the road is no more than a track and the ruts, at least six inches deep, just fit the wheels, and twist and turn up and down. The tropical sun did its best to make us uncomfortable. Very few had a change of clothing - what with burns from the engine-sparks, perspiration, and dirt from the charcoal, we made a good picture. Most of us found it by far the best to stand and hang on as best we could. At least three men in our lorry were too ill to stand and for them this journey was hell. We stopped at one large native village and were able to buy a large gourd of fresh milk. The Police guard in charge of the party told us that this milk was not safe to drink unless first boiled. Nevertheless it was handed around and was the first milk we had tasted since our internment. We also managed to obtain a few roasted peanuts. After this we got under way again - or a common saying among some of us was: "The voyage of the CRITON continues". About 11 o'clock we arrived at the first ferry - this river is a tributary of the Niger - and we made a meal from the bread roll and beef. We had some time to wait as the ferry was at the other side of the river. Eventually it arrived - it was a very crude affair, like a large flat-bottomed punt with two tracks for the wheels and very little longer than the lorry itself. How it managed to maintain its stability is a miracle. Two men on each side propel this craft across with large poles. Two large dilapidated dredgers lay in the river. We were told that they belonged to an American firm and were intended for extracting gold from the silt on the river-bed. However, when they arrived the French forbade their use. Therefore the dredgers were left to rot in the tropical sun and rain.

On reaching the other side we continued our journey - only about 30 kms when we arrived at our second ferry over the Niger. This was the same crude contraption as the previous one, and with great difficulty we made the other side where we were now only a few kilometres from Siguri and arrived there about 4.30 p.m. We were immediately escorted to a small military barracks and our comrades in the first lorry had arrived about one and a half hours ahead of us. We found them enjoying a jolly good meal. The Commissary of Police at Kan Kan had kept his word and had made full arrangements for our arrival. However, soon afterwards one calamity did happen. The Military Commandant here was kind enough to give us a 25-litre bon-bon of wine - this was to be used partly for immediate consumption and the remainder to be kept for the journey on to Bamako. When the container was being lifted the bottom fell out. Unfortunately the precious liquid poured all over the floor and was promptly swept outside.

We were all very tired and after a good wash had a very comfortable night on the stone floor. At 7 o'clock the next morning we had coffee and each man was given a bread roll and a tin of sardines - this was to be our meal on the next part of our lorry journey. More cargo had to be loaded into our two lorries and there was considerable delay in starting. We got going about 9.30 a.m. Depending on the condition of the road, we expected to make Bamako that night. Everyone thought that it was a considerably longer run than the day before but we had no river to cross this time. As before, the road was no more than a track in places but we passed through many quite large native villages. On this journey we passed the boundary between French Guinea and the French Sudan. In this region of Guinea the natives mine for gold-dust and barter or sell it to the village merchants in exchange for food. The gold is considered to be some of the finest in the world but is found only in very small quantities.

About mid-day we made a halt at a small village. There was a well at the side of the road and after making enquiries we found that the water was quite fit to drink. We soon made short work of our bread and sardines. The head man of this village was a native doctor and he invited one or two of us into his hut. We were astonished to see how neatly and tidily he had it furnished, although from outward appearances it was just the same as the others.

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