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The gluten-free kitchen

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Dan Lepard Dan Lepard | 14:33 UK time, Monday, 18 July 2011

Most traditional baking and processed food relies on a natural protein called in some form. Found in most baking flours and foods made from them, gluten helps foods stay solid without crumbling, keeps it soft, holds moisture, and adds chewiness to the texture. It鈥檚 essential to most baking recipes but a right pain if you鈥檙e allergic or intolerant to it.

If you have or have a problem with gluten, you know what I mean. But if you don't, just think of it this way: imagine you鈥檙e diagnosed with physical condition way beyond 鈥榝ussy鈥 that meant that you couldn't eat most prepared food on sale, had to plan for every meal and not just casually wing-it, had to say no to most treats like birthday cakes and puddings, couldn't have most beers, and of course, never eat a slice of everyday bread.

To be honest, most of us eat way too much wheat flour in our diet compared to the energy we exert, so adding more fresh vegetables, meat, fish, beans and pulses to your diet is no bad thing. But it would be a grim life without the occasional cake or sandwich, so I鈥檝e been spending time in my kitchen experimenting with ideas that making gluten-free baking that bit easier.

Gluten-free olive bread

Dan Lepard鈥檚 adaptable gluten-free bread made with olive oil, yoghurt and psyllium husk powder.

  • I鈥檝e written a foolproof gluten-free bread recipe for the 大象传媒 Food website that should please even the most critical bread addicts. It鈥檚 dead-easy to make and bake. But it takes more than one recipe to turn a gluten-free life into a free and easy one, so here are my steps to easier baking:

  • Use the internet and seek out the experts as the recipes you need are just a few clicks away. My friends Shauna James Ahern's and Sarah Phillips' will give you the practical help and inspiration to make it all the more trouble-free. (Many of the best recipes use US cups, so you might want to pour 240ml of water into a teacup, mark the outside, and use that to measure.)

    Who needs gluten when you鈥檝e got this much chocolate and eggs in a cake? Try Sophie Dahl鈥檚 divine flourless chocolate cake

    Who needs gluten when you鈥檝e got this much chocolate and eggs in a cake? Try Sophie Dahl鈥檚 divine flourless chocolate cake

  • Gluten-free really does mean just that, so don't be swayed by some of the myths out there and know what you're buying. Sourdough bread isn't gluten-free by nature of the process, though can be if made with gluten-free ingredients. Baking powder needs to be labelled 鈥榞luten-free鈥 otherwise it isn't, whereas bicarbonate of soda (called baking soda in the US) always is. Cornflour and icing sugar are safe, while suet might not be (check if it contains wheat flour).
  • Bookmark essential recipes. Some ideas to start with could be...
    * That intense chocolate brownie: Karina Allrich at has a Belgian chocolate, rice flour and almond recipe that鈥檚 delicious.
    * A classy thin gluten-free pancake recipe: this one by blogger Seamaiden from her site did it for me.
    * Shortbread: this recipe from is both crisp and rich with butter. A little orange zest helps to lift the flavour.
  • When you're starting out, stick to recipes that use very little wheat flour, or don't require the flour to do very much except bind things like cookies, shortcrust pastry, pancakes and batters, brownies and any of the heavier tray-bake bars.
  • Prepare your expectations. Pastry made from gluten-free flour will feel crumblier and more fragile as you roll it: it will tear and fall apart but will patch together and bake just fine.
  • Work a little faster. Cornflour (cornstarch) typically makes up the bulk of the gluten-free flour mixes you buy, and it and most other gluten-free starches absorb moisture much faster than wheat flour. So mixtures need to be worked together a little more swiftly if you want them to be smooth and even-textured.
  • As a general rule, keep the flavours quite strong as cornflour, tapioca and rice flour have no flavour at all.
  • For most simple baking the prepared gluten-free flour mixes sold by some millers will do the trick but sometimes you will need to seek out specialist ingredients. Here are some that will help you tackle any baking challenge:
  • Try using linseed in place of in recipes. When ground or roasted then soaked in water, linseed (sometimes called ) releases a gum that is very good at holding the texture of cookies and cakes together - as long as you don't mind brown specks in your baking.
  • For an extra moist crumb add tapioca starch. It鈥檚 typically found in most gluten-free flour mixes. It gives cookies and cakes a chewier texture, and stops them drying out too quickly. But use it sparingly, say 25g/1oz for every 200g/7oz cornflour or rice flour, as it swells up with moisture and can make cakes slightly gummy if overused.
  • One of the trickiest things to make is a wholemeal flour type result, as it's hard to find replacements for wheatgerm and bran. Brown rice flour is very helpful here, especially if combined with ground linseed. It has a slightly nutty flavour, important as so many of the main flours are flavourless.
  • Buckwheat flour, not actually a wheat but a type of seed, has a rich nutty flavour that's also useful for "wholemeal" style gluten-free baking, and using 25g/1oz for every 500g/1lb 2oz of rice flour or cornflour helps to make bread loaves bigger and softer.

Buckwheat blinis by Sophie Dahl

What have your gluten-free successes been? Or any recipes you've found trickier? I'll try and help. Do let us know if you've found a website that's been helpful, or if you know of some tricks to improve all our gluten-free baking.

Dan Lepard is a food writer and baking expert.

Comments

  • Comment number 1.

    I've noticed that and both have delicious sounding gluten-free recipes too

  • Comment number 2.

    The Gluten Free Photographer's blog is a gorgeous resource for gluten free baking. I'm not coeliac myself, but have coeliac friends and always found it a challenge when feeding them. The food on this site is not only nom by coeliac standards (where you ultimately find yourself making excuses for how not-like, but acceptably-like, the non-coeliac version it is), but nom by all the rest of our standards too!

  • Comment number 3.

    This blog contains Gluten free recipes. It's only new but sounds yummy. Might be worth a look? I know that being gluten free is rubbish but with recipes like the lemon cake on there, it's not all bad!

  • Comment number 4.

    I've been trying to create some gluten-free naans, which has been a fun journey! They turned out to be suprisingly nice and you can see the results here on our facebook page: - I used a prepared flour that contained rice flour, potato starch, tapioca and xantham gum. It was ok, bit difficult to shape but cooked well - I'll try the cornflour and flaxseed next time to see what happens!

  • Comment number 5.

    Found another good blog, (or follow in twitter with @gfveg ) combines vegetarian food with gluten-free baking.

    Do post your questions. On facebook Gemma at the Vanilla Bakery in Bury St Edmunds Market asked if there was an alternative to the psyllium husk powder?
    Not really, primarily because it's so natural and easy to get hold of. Big factory bakers that make gluten free bread have more to play with, and often chemical like Carboxy methyl cellulose (CMC) and Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) are used in combination to imitate gluten (as they do it very well). But I wanted to keep our recipe natural too, so that's why I use psyllium husk powder.

  • Comment number 6.

    except coeliac disease, I think that most of problems people have with wheat come from our modern flour trade. if you bake with the whole grain which means that the flour contains the germ and the bran, in general people have no intolerance. we have made the experience in Cucugnan (Aude, South of France), grinding wheels are used to grind ancient varieties of wheat: and the result is amazing. we will publish on our website soon the scientific report of this experience so people in general have no problem with wheat, but with the grinding process chosen.

  • Comment number 7.

    I don't need to bake gluten-free very often, but this cake is one of the nicest I've found. Without the frosting it's also dairy-free:



    I've also made a non-chocolate cake based on the above Daily Mail recipe and a similar one from Annie Bell's 'Gorgeous Cakes' book:

  • Comment number 8.

    Thanks a lot for writing about gluten free cooking and baking and sharing all your "tricks". One can eat deliciously well "without" gluten (and/or without many other ingredients, in fact) and that's good news.
    For those who are gluten intolerant, the sprouted flours at are really worth the try.

  • Comment number 9.

    at least I found some delicious gluten free recipes, especially bread.
    I usually buy an expensive one but now I can bake my own.
    alltough I am not 100% coeliac I have to take some care with bread and pasta...
    and I love baking cakes...
    thank you Dan Lepard and 大象传媒 food blog.

  • Comment number 10.

    Thank you very much for the advise! We own two mills in the Netherlands and sell glutenfree mixes as well. A lot of people use them and they all like them very much but we are always open for new suggestions and ideas. And surely are going to buy the book! Again, many thanks.

  • Comment number 11.

    I would like to make the gluten-free bread but do I have to use cornmeal (yellow) or cornstarch (white) ?
    Thank you
    Leen

  • Comment number 12.

    Today I made two loafs. They were both a total disaster !
    The first I made with cornstarch : the mixture was liquid (just like water). The second I made with cornmeal : it didn't rise and the mixture wasn't firm.
    I followed the recipe and used the same ingredients.
    Does anyone made the bread yet ?
    Leen

  • Comment number 13.

    Saw your email and post here, but don鈥檛 worry, you were right the first time you made it, and you should have paragraph 3 more closely:

    "Over the next five minutes this liquid will turn into a sticky dough, as the linseed, cornflour and psyllium husk powder together absorb liquid and become gel-like."

    It鈥檚 really important to wait after you鈥檝e mixed everything together as that will give the gel from the psyllium husk powder time to form. If you want to see it in action I鈥檝e just made it again for you, photographed it, and posted on my flickr page here:



    just in case other readers worry at the beginning as you did.

    I can't stress enough the importance of reading and following a recipe, even if you're experienced in baking. Slipping that way can catch the best of us. If you look at the step-by-step picture I've posted you can see the transformation that happens to the mixture.

    Yes, in the UK we call cornstarch 鈥渃ornflour鈥.

    Dan

  • Comment number 14.

    Great to see all this gluten-free stuff, given new global estimates that 42,000 children probably die of coeliac disease annually

  • Comment number 15.

    I think the main problem with gluten free baking is the lack of wholesome flours. I try to create recipes which have nutritional value. I have yet to find a recipe which works 100 per cent for gluten-free bread and doesn't include xanthan gum or guar gum or other "strange" ingredients! I bake with ground almonds in the main but like to use Doves Farm gluten-free flour occasionally. I keep my cooking simple!

  • Comment number 16.

    This comment was removed because the moderators found it broke the house rules. Explain.

  • Comment number 17.

    This comment was removed because the moderators found it broke the house rules. Explain.

  • Comment number 18.

    A good trick for rolling out a gluten-free pastry pie topping is to roll it between two sheets of clingfilm. Take the top piece of film off and flip over your pie filling, then remove the rest of the film. It's hard to get a completely patch free pie top, but this helps it look a lot neater.

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