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Don鈥檚 War Diary: Leave in Sicily August 鈥� September 1943

In the pause between the Sicilian campaign and the invasion of Italy, Don is granted a few days leave. The motor bike gives the chance to see a bit more of the island. He has mixed experiences of Americans.

Saturday 28th August
Managed to get going at 10.00 with bags loaded. Got the other side of Patti and found my front forks were clanging around and the rod was half way out. Having no spanner I borrowed a pair of pincers from a helpful Italian and it was got back. Passed Cap Orlando against many east bound American convoys. Through many small towns to San Stephano where I had to deliver a message to Dante鈥檚 brother. After a long tour of all the back streets guided by small boys I found the chap 鈥� a bloated down and out. On to Cefalie where I intended to bathe but after I had brewed up and had a bite it was too late and I dispensed with the bathe. On for another 50 miles to Palermo. Road all the way winding, many diversions over the broad torrent beds. The enemy had destroyed every bridge except three. Americans have made good diversions and had already made several very good wooden bridges. The last few miles were terrible due to bad surface. On arrival went to the American Red Cross where I was directed to Port Embarkation Office and again re directed to HQ 7th Army with Port Office. Found the billet, officer there a major, who after hearing my requirements flew right off the handle and showed me a copy of General Patten鈥檚 order forbidding personnel to enter 7th Army area except on duty. I made what apologies I could and said I would get outside the town, but the very decently said I could go to their bivouac area. I thanked him and withdrew. My next source, after asking several American CMP was taken to AMGOT where I was told to got to one of their billets. This wasn鈥檛 as easy as all that and after much riding around got there via Malasfino. I met Sgt Coombes A/CSM 8th Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders who was very kind and took me to the cookhouse and lavishly fed me on grapefruit etc. Gave me three blankets and mosquito net and floor space. After a wash went out on the bikes to ARC to the flicks and saw Mickey Rooney in 鈥淎ndy Hardy鈥檚 Courtship鈥� despite the terrific temperature inside. Afterwards the ride back was tricky in the dark.

Sunday 29th August
A troublesome night. Thought I was being bitten all over by mosquitoes but was relieved to hear that they were ants; apparently the whole house is infested with them. After a substantial breakfast of pancakes, corn syrup, bacon, bread and butter and jam and coffee I went down the town with Sgts. Barber and Coombes to AMGOT HQ. I left them there and continued walking down via Macqueda , a magnificent road running right through the centre of the city. Very little bomb damage. Americans laying lines. Government building beflagged with Stars and Stripes and Gendarmes with cocked hats. After walking down the end of the street it started raining and I dived into an archway. So did a lot of people 鈥� ultimately including a horse and brougham and a handcart loaded with goods pulled by urchins. Well, it just poured for about 90 minutes torrentially and we went from end to end as it drove in. A free fight developed when the cabman became rough with his horse. Eventually we got out. The scene was amazing. The streets were literally rivers 鈥� only a yard of road showing. Probably the cause is disrupted main sewage. I endeavoured to find my way back but failed miserably and after an hour wandering around I saw an AMGOT staff car empty and that took me back. After a rest I went out again for a short stroll, this time checking my bearings. I got talking to an American CMP - a Quaker. Returning, I bought a bottle of Marsala wine for 100 lire (5 shillings) and found it excellent. After tea, went to the church service in the ARC cinema with D. Brown, a Glaswegian and a roommate. On the way caught sight of one of our staff cars so hurried on to avoid unnecessary questions. A good number at the cinema for the service taken by an American grey haired padre. An unusual thing for us was the manner of singing three hymns one after the other. After the service and address came the film show. 鈥淢e and my girl鈥� with the song. Jolly good and most enjoyable. Behind us during the show was an empty row of seats, which were wet with dripping water from the morning鈥檚 rain coming off the roof. If one chap tried to sit there a hundred did much to the amusement of all. Another quiet night free from air raids.

Monday 30th August
Breakfast porridge, sausages, bread jam and coffee. Out early on a shopping expedition. Near ARC met Johnnie Wood and Smudger in Brigadier鈥檚 car. Got in and went up to the Brigadier鈥檚 hotel. Saw him and returned to town. Joined up with Smudger and went shopping meeting the Brigadier every half hour or so鈥� Unfortunately I was seized with a griping stomach ache which made the morning unbearable in spite of Johnnie Woods administration of McLean鈥檚 powder. Bought stock of pipes etc. Eventually got back to AMGOT feeling bloody and after small lunch went to RAP where Dr Palmer 2 RVR gave me laudanum pills which quietened it down and on his advice I went to bed in his sick bay, a whitewashed room shared by two other unfortunates with sandfly fever. Slept all afternoon. Got up for dinner and sat about talking all evening with Sgts Barber, Delaney (USA), and Pat McGrath (2LF) QM. Eventually went to bed in RAP.

Tuesday 31st August
Up early and out on bike to AMGOT garage to leave bike. Met Smudger there who said Brigadier had said we could stay another day. Later, Brigadier arrived and confirmed this and offered me money if I wanted it. Still had Cole鈥檚 cheque to cash. Thanked him. Got Cole鈥檚 cheque cashed with much sweating and then went on shopping tour of Via Roma with Smudger. Thank heavens I felt better than yesterday though still twinges. I think it must have been chill rather than sausages. After dinner Smudger and I want to Mondello the super plage of Palermo. We went on bikes and naturally the wrong way to start. Roads perfectly bloody. Got there in the end. A truly marvellous beach of pure white sand fringed by evergreens. The bay is surrounded by rocky headlands with village on the left. Bathing in the green and blue Mediterranean from the swimming station is admirably organised by ARC and there are many small boats with triangular sails for anyone to have a go in. I took several photos. Had a bathe; water perfectly transparent and magnificently warm.
Returning via a bloodier road than before we got back late so had to take the bike to return to Smudger鈥檚 place. Unfortunately had to take Coombes along. Picture 鈥淪on of Fury鈥� with Tyrone Power and Gene Tierney. Very good but damned hot. Then on the way down Coombes pushed an Italian bloke right over, I think he must be completely nuts.

Wednesday 1st September
Leaving Palermo this morning. Down with Jack to get bike at 08.30 after taking some pictures. Film shot over so I had to get into a dark room to change it over. After walking the length of Via Roma found one and chap gave me a Kodak cassette 鈥� good on. Bought more silk stockings. Smudger came back with me to AMGOT. Packed up and had dinner. Sold my German wristwatch to Delaney for 拢1, who plagued me for souvenirs. We got on the road by about 13.30 after a joke start over my handlebars. We beat it along the beautiful road to Cefalu which we reached by 15.00. not bad after 50 miles. On to San Stefano where I hit Smudger鈥檚 bike with my leg which was sore. No sooner had I done it than an Italian rushed out, cut a lemon in half, and rubbed it all over. A few more miles on and a stop for tea by road side. Brew up and bully and biscuits. A halt for an hour and then at 19.00 on again. From here to Cap Orlando we raced and American truck. It was marvellous fun cutting round those corners up and down hill. At Cap Orlando we stopped and they went by. We now had 21 miles to do, but after Brolo my bike ran out of petrol and we had to wait for an American to give me some. It had now dropped dark and the rest of the way was very harassing but we finally got in about 20.30. Got settled down and went for a stroll round with Harold. So ends my leave.

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