大象传媒

78 Division have been taken out of the line and is going on to an unknown destination. Meanwhile they are near Tivoli for a while and Don is thrilled to cast his artist鈥檚 eye over some of the treasures of Rome鈥�

Tuesday 4th July
Left HQ by 08.00 by truck. Party consisted of Frank, Charlie Haydon, Sam, Dick, and Sticky O鈥機onnor. Frank lost us well and truly when in the city. Dick gave a shout for me to look out. I did, just in time to see the Victor Emmanuel Memorial in all its glory, a mass of white marble at the end of the road. We soon found our way to 8th Army car park where we left the truck. Of course we had missed the early sightseeing party who had left 15 minutes previously so we had a walk back the way we came by the Temple of Vesta 鈥� well known to me. The Victor Emmanuel memorial is a colossal thing with one time gilded equestrian figures, and vast colonnades. It forms one side of the Piazza Venezia with Mussolini鈥檚 Balcony on the left and offices on the right. The Americans have erected a saluting base and flag on the Square with four sentries. The flag flapping on the white pole was that flown by President Roosevelt when America declared war. We went down the Corso Umberto. The shops are full of stuff at slightly increased prices. We went in a fountain pen shop and bought a pen each for 400 Lire 鈥攏ot bad. The young lady serving spoke excellent English having been born and brought up in London and caught up in Italy when war interfered with her holiday. We meandered down past Trajan鈥檚 column after calling in a large caf茅 for a cup of ersatz chocolate and buns. Further down we entered at ice cream bar 鈥� excellent ice cream and wine. We had several. Here we met some interesting people who told us much about the customs in Fascist Italy. I was curious about the ability of Mussolini to fill the Place Venezia every time, but I was told that the people were issued with red cards and they were paid for attending! We then left and returned to the truck where we had a snack and some tea then piled aboard a three tonner for the tour. Charlie Haydon, Sticky and myself. The truck was a captured Bosche truck of a Canadian unit. Boy oh boy did he put the wind up us! All brakes and acceleration. We crossed the Tiber close to the Castel San Angelo a rotunda, grim looking, built by Hadrian as a mausoleum. Continuing round we came to the Vatican City entering the colossal St Peter鈥檚 Square. One felt frightfully insignificant. In the centre of the square is the enormous Egyptian monolith and surrounding it the colonnades with marvellous fountains on either side. We started climbing the steps towards the west fa莽ade, rather surprised not to see the all-conspicuous dome, which is eclipsed by the terrific height of the fa莽ade. One feels like an ant walking through the legs of a man. Inside the doors of Filareto greeted us, four evangelists, and the death of Peter etc. Above on the rear of the architrave the Giotto mosaic. Marvellous. Inside our first reaction to the size is bewilderment. The length makes the people at the other end about one sixteenth high. The Corinthian pilasters hung with red and gold, chapels and the chapels each side the wealth of mosaics which simulate paintings (there are no paintings in the Basilica) Everything is colossal but everything is to scale and it does not worry you. The mighty bronze canopy over St Peter鈥檚 tomb the spiral columns each weighing 600 tons and 90 feet high is terrific but only later when I was shown the Palasso Farnese did I realise how low 90 feet looked. The tomb of St Peter is under the altar, used only by the Pope, in a sort of grotto. On the right is the fourteenth century statue of St Peter, with a large chunk of the right foot worn by the kisses of pilgrims. Behind the tomb is the symbolical throne of St Peter. All around the walls are tombs of the Popes also on a colossal scale. One of the most amazing tombs is the tomb of Alexander VII by Bernini. The enormous marble folds over the gilded skeleton underneath. The Sistine chapel was closed so I missed the chance of seeing Michelangelo鈥檚 decorations but did see his Pieta, a truly impressive piece of work and one of his earliest. White polished marble with much feeling. We left then with a feeling of drunkenness 鈥� drunk from seeking so much beauty in such a short time. I took several shots outside. The Swiss Guards were in undress uniform, blue and baggy. From the Vatican we went up to the Capitoline where we looked down on the remains of the Forum. The few remaining stately Corinthian columns looked noble but pitiful, but it was a great moment to know you are standing in the centre of the old Roman town. From here we went on to the Colosseum. Amazing place. The doors are all numbered but one (Vestal Virgins only). Inside below the columns are studded with many holes. Some diagonal in the columns were put there by Napoleon鈥檚 troops when he occupied Rome. Square holes higher up were where the joists of houses used during the Dark Ages as a hospital. The inside now open, has the base of the Emperor鈥檚 box still there and the gate of the Gladiators, the Vestal Virgins entrance and the gate where the corpses were carried out. 5000 wild animals were destroyed in the 100 days festival- numbers of men killed, unknown. From here we went on to the outskirts of the city to the spot where now stands a chapel commemorating the vision of St Paul meeting the Lord and saying 鈥淒omine, quo vadis?鈥� It is the spot where the Appian way leaves the city. From here we went on to the church of St Paul without the walls. A new church built in the last 100 years. The interior is really magnificent, not so enormous at St Peter鈥檚 but very fine. Excellent mosaics and large portrait medallions as a frieze from Peter to Pius XII. In one transept we saw the onyx windows presented by King Faud of Egypt. The tomb of St Paul as that of St Peter beneath the Papal Altar. From here on our guide took as to the tomb of Scipio Barbentine(?sic) father of Scipio Africanus. The Columbarium (pigeon holes) each with two small pots for ashes. Around the corner in a long dark tunnel we say the copy of the tomb of Scipio (original is in the Vatican) Poorer funeral places cut out of the rock were also shown to us. Retuning we stopped to see the graves in a small churchyard of Shelley and Keats. Simple, quiet and impressive. We then went up on to the Aventine Hill to the Hospital of the Knights of Malta. Here the guide showed us a magnificent sight through a peep hole in the door 鈥� an aperture less then half an inch 鈥� a long vista of box hedge beautifully clipped and fitting into it at its end just the dome of St Peter鈥檚 in a sort of lavender hue. Form here we passed though the only bomb damage we saw to the Tiber where I had a good look at a very old and well know object of my studies - the Cloaca Maxima- the Roman sewer. Still visible but silted. We continued on to the Teatro Pompeii through many narrow streets. Here Julius Caesar met his end. Our guide took us into the State Library to show us the applied perspective colonnade there, apparently at least 100 yards long, columns on the sides, semi circular arches and a figure at the end. Here on investigation it proved to be only 30 yards long, the floor raised and the columns gradually lowering. Incredible. We then went on to a church, on which was engraved the height of the Tiber when the Tiber Bridge was destroyed. Several heights noted in the 15th and 16th centuries are marked there. Then on to the Pantheon, the most compete ancient temple existing. The colossal pillars of the entrance the gigantic bronze doors opened into the vast circle covered by the 鈥ome opening to the sky. Here we saw the tomb of Raphael and the Kings of Italy. A very impressive building. It was now getting late so we left our guide and returned to the truck for sustenance and a wash. In the park I met some 142 fellows including Manby the driver who took me to Brigade HQ in 1940 鈥� he remembered. We went out again about 19.00 a walked from Piazza del Popoli around a good deal, having our boots cleaned by two small boys and watched by an admiring crowd. We eventually finished up in the Pincio Gardens and after a walk over the Castel San Angelo Bridge to meet the truck. As usual Frank got us lost on the way out. He is absolutely hopeless! I eventually took over and got us out OK. Thus ends one of the most interesting if not the most interesting day of my life.

Thursday 6th July.
Away to Rome at 08.00. Went straight in and stopped at Ponte Margeruita where I went to Piazza Rigorgomento then had a drink in a street caf茅. Stopped for some time looking at boating and swimming on the Tiber. Magnificent scene. The river was fast moving, green grey, the sun very strong. At 11.30 met Sticky and Charlie and went to our friend鈥檚 house for lunch. First class lunch of pasta etc. Stayed talking until late afternoon then went to caf茅 again for more Marsala. American airman very intrusive and insisted on blowing up a 鈥渞ubber鈥� much to our consternation. We eventually walked out whilst he went to get another. We then returned to Corso Umberto to the variety show there. First rate show, excellent acrobatics and clowns and instrumentalists. During the performance a drunken American walked through the audience on to stage and danced. Stupid. The behaviour of the Americans leaves much to be desired in comparison with British and French personnel. The civilians are scared stiff of Americans. Returned to area of Piazza del Popoli to await truck. Sticky missing for some time and delayed us. Eventually I found him. Arrived back at 23.30 for supper. A very quiet but enjoyable day. I took a good few photos.

Friday 8th July
Packing up this morning. Rather hectic but everything under control. Decided to go to Rome after dinner. Left abut 15.00 and went straight to St Peter鈥檚 to see if we could get a glimpse of the Sistine chapel, but were disappointed as this was only possible in the mornings. Anyhow we had another look round the Basilica with as much appreciation as the first time. We then went back to the Corso Umberto where I got a damned good haircut and shampoo followed by tea at the Shamrock Club, run by Capt. Butterfield. After tea I had a walk round the town in search of a present for Susan and Duncan, but could only get a silk scarf and a few medals for Duncan. Drifted up to the Palazzo Barabarini about 18.30 and had a look in. Fine place and well kept. All preparations were just finishing when we go there. The chef from Div Tps RASC did them all. At 19.15 the pipe bands did their stuff extremely well in the courtyard outside. They looked very well as I looked down on them from the window upstairs. We, Dick and I were responsible for handing out the civilian passes 鈥� not frightfully arduous. During the evening we moved around a good deal and found refreshment. The Brigadier introduced me to Mrs Kiernan of the Irish Legation and told me more about the job he wanted done for the four counties. I am to go tomorrow at 11.00. The evening was quite merry 鈥擨rish dancing, pipe band playing etc. Eventually it drew to a close about 00.15

Saturday 9th July
Today was the Divisional audience with the Pope. Left for Irish Legation at 10.00 and after much searching arrived dead on time. Unfortunately Mrs Kiernan had failed to find anything so my mission was fruitless. Afterwards I went to the Basilica S. Maria Maggiore. Fine old church with twin cupolas and transepts. They were saying mass when I went in but I fortunately met an official guide who showed me around. Points which struck me were that the congregation just stood around the altar and sat quite unperturbed and spiritually enhanced in the many chapels. The whole place is a magnificent collection of different marbles. The most amazing being the Lapis Lazuli marble altar in the Borgia chapel. Truly and amazing colour streaked with veins of gold. Quite a lot of work by Bernini , magnificent work and in the floor of the church is a small half slab of marble and barely visible on it is the name and inscription Bernini. Very peculiar that such as he who had produced such wonders of sepulchral art should be so simple represented. The font chapel of bronze gilt is also staggering. Mosaics of the Romanesque period show up well and then the apse in Byzantine style is terrific. The four columns supporting the canopy of red porphyry came from the Basilica of Constantine. Really a half hour and 100 lire well spent. Joined Thompson again and borrowed cigarettes. Our little anticipation bore fruit in no uncertain way and the results were amazing. Got back about 13.45 Moving tomorrow at 07.15. Train 09.15 for unknown destination. Frenzied packing all afternoon and managed to dispose of jerry kit OK. Tonight I shall sleep on my old bed for the last time. It has been a good friend since those far off days in Tunis.

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