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It’s hard to explain the precise nature of these: they are light, almost like doughnuts, but made of scented, sweet air rather than batter.

Strictly speaking, you shouldn’t leave them to stand once they’ve been made. But pleasurable though it is to eat them as soon as you can – once they’re out of the pan – I have found they’re fine for a while in a low oven. The contrast between outside and inside is lost rather, but not so much as you gain in the convenience of being able to make them ahead.