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From Shetland to the Scilly Isles, Open Country travels the UK in search of the stories, the people and the wildlife that make our countryside such a vibrant place. Each week we visit a new area to hear how local people are growing the crops, protecting the environment, maintaining the traditions and cooking the food that makes their corner of rural Britain unique.
Email: open.country@bbc.co.uk
Postal address: Open Country, 大象传媒 Radio 4, Birmingham, B5 7QQ.
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St Mary's, Isles of Scilly
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Richard Uridge finds himself the westernnmost person in the land when he visits the Isles of Scilly. Part of the Duchy of Cornwall, 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall, the archipelago consists of a number of inhabited islands and a whole range of uninhabited smaller islands and rocks - the number of which varies depending on who's counting, but it's certainly several hundred. The main five islands are St Martin's, Tresco, Bryher, St Agnes and the largest - St Mary's. The Isles are known for their extremely mild climate, frost only occurs every hundred years or so, and sub-tropical plants flourish in public and private gardens. It means that its famous flower industry can flourish: growers can produce spring flowers as early as November. Tourism is now the biggest industry for the islanders and 40 per cent of visitors come back year after year.
Richard begins his visit on a boat, bobbing around Annet, one of the small rocky islands. There may be no people there, but it's inhabited by hundreds of seabirds. Ornithologist and electrician for the five islands, Paul Stancliffe shows Richard the amazing puffins - much smaller than imagined, but birds with a whole range of wonderful habits - they spend the whole winter on the stormy seas of the Atlantic; the barbs on their bills secure their cargo of fish; they starve their chicks to make them leave the burrows deep in the cliffs.
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Puffins on Scilly - a painting by A Blackwell
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Back on dry land on St Mary's, Richard meets Liz Davey, the officer in charge of this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and, with Julian Ould, the Chaplain for all the Isles, they go to Bar Point. Here they can see the ring of the main islands across the sea from a wonderful sandy beach. Liz says the islands are made from granite which were formed at the same time as other granite lands in Cornwall, like Bodmin and Land's End. The geology of the isles is reflected under the water: the four bigger islands were once joined when the sea level was a lot lower and, at very low tide, you can see pre-historic field-boundaries: lines of stones forming regular patterns. On a really low tide, you can still walk between the islands.
Julian explains that the islanders have a strong sense of community. The 28 miles of water between the Isles and Cornwall is very isolating. He is one of the few clergy who knows everyone who lives in his parish.
Scilly is known for its flowers and each year thousands of people flock to the famous gardens on Tresco. Richard finds an amazing community garden, which was once a blot on the landscape, in the middle of St Mary's. Carreg Dhu Gardens (Cornish for black rock) was not so long ago a derelict quarry full of rubbish. In 1986, June Lethbridge and her husband, Richard, decided to turn the area into a garden for everyone in the community. When her husband died, June started a committee of volunteers who run the garden and they now pay two part-time gardeners. Sue Milligan is now in charge of fund-raising and she shows off the wonderful sub-tropical plants in the garden - palm trees, geranium maderense, lampranthus, bottle brush, acacias, camellias, proteas. They have many plants from Australia and New Zealand which co-exist in a happy tangle.
Where there are flowers, there's fragrance, and Richard follows his nose to the Perfumery on St Mary's. Run by Pete Hobson, it's where the flowers and fruits and even honey and pollen of the islands are made into soaps and perfumes. Pete was trained by perfumiers in Grasse in France, and explains to Richard how to make soap by the old cold method, though he doesn't divulge his secret recipe.
Then it's back on a boat, this time to follow a boat race. Ted Mulson is the vice-captain of the Islands' Gig Team. Gigs are very much part of Island life: the boats are 30 ft long and each carries six rowers and a coxswain. They're made of elm and are very heavy. The oldest boat, Bonnet, was built in 1830 and is still racing twice a week, every week. The boats were originally called pilot gigs and there were over 100 in the Isles of Scilly. The gigs raced out to the big boats, clippers and trading vessels that were coming in, competing for the job of bringing them into port. Forty years ago, someone decided that it was a shame that they were rotting in a shed and so the sport of gig racing began - it's now one of the biggest west-country sports. St Mary's has just hosted the World Championships and Richard follows a women's race - from the safe distance of a motorboat.
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