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PROGRAMME INFO |
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From Shetland to the Scilly Isles, Open Country travels the UK in search of the stories, the people and the wildlife that make our countryside such a vibrant place. Each week we visit a new area to hear how local people are growing the crops, protecting the environment, maintaining the traditions and cooking the food that makes their corner of rural Britain unique.
Email: open.country@bbc.co.uk
Postal address: Open Country, 大象传媒 Radio 4, Birmingham, B5 7QQ.
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Ainsley Jones and Norwen Davies at Llanwrtyd Wells Station
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In the second of our two-part railway special, Richard Uridge travels on the Heart of Wales line which runs the 121 miles from Shrewsbury to Swansea. It's a proper commercial railway, with little trains carrying commuters, shoppers and tourists through some of the most beautiful scenery in Britain.
It was originally built in the mid-19th century to connect the north-west of England with the ports of South Wales and the flourishing steel and coal industries. The line includes seven bridges and six tunnels and Richard explores the some of the small communities alongside the line around the old spa towns in the middle, for whom the railway provides a lifeline in an area which would otherwise be devoid of public transport.
Richard's first port of call is the pretty station of Llanwrtyd Wells - but it wasn't always so. Gateway to the smallest town in the UK, it used to be a dilapidated and rubbish-strewn site - the platforms were overgrown and the whole area had been sadly neglected. One resident decided that enough was enough and the community must do something about it. Chairman of the local council at the time was Ainsley Jones, who snapped into action and the first local collection raised just 拢200 - but it was enough to get the ball rolling and an action group was formed. They sought grants from a huge range of sources, co-opted the army to clear a particularly unpleasant patch of ground and the entire area was transformed - platforms weeded, hedges trimmed, new fences erected and flower beds redesigned. The work has been ongoing, hundreds of daffodil bulbs have been planted, with the help of the local cub scouts, and an avenue of trees planted along the fence on the down platform. The area to the rear of the station building was paved and has become a popular picnic area. The community has been so inspired that a gardening club has grown up from this tiny beginning. Today, after work totalling around 拢10,000, the station is immaculate with fresh paint and lots of flowers and flourishing wildlife. They enter the Wales in Bloom competition every year and have come second for three years running. Ainsley says they'll never win, because the station is still a bit on the wild side, but that's how they like it.
At Pen-y-bont, Elizabeth Turner and her husband are restoring Maesyfed, a row of historic cottages. The first building on the site was a medieval farmhouse, but it was continually built on and eventually became a ramshackle row of cottages which show the variety of different local building styles down the centuries. The range of industry at Maesyfed was extraordinary: tailoring, a tearoom, a blacksmith, cobbling, a seed merchant, a garage, chick rearing, etc. There was even a state-of-the-art laundry in 1905 when the hotels in the new spa town of Llandrindod Wells needed to have their sheets and pillowcases dealt with - the laundry arrived on the railway.
Continuing the tradition of adapting the buildings to meet the needs of the time, the Turners are busy with plans for the next stage. They've already converted the old pressing room into a gallery space with a wonderful floor. This is a demonstration and trial for tiles made of end grain timber which, it's hoped, will reinvigorate the Welsh timber industry. Jorge Ordonnez designed the floor to reflect the weaving patterns within laundry baskets, and his brother Fernando now makes and plays traditional Colombian musical instruments which are on sale there. Eventually Elizabeth says she hopes the place will become a centre that encourages artists, craftsmen and designers to work together collaboratively.
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Mark Bevan kits out Richard Uridge
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Richard finally gets his chance to play at Wembley - the Penybont race track has been called the Wembley of Wales! It lies on a small grassy floodplain, traditionally the meadow would have been a place where local employers would hire villagers from the surrounding area. Today the area is used for grazing sheep, but it also has a grandstand and mud track which is used for Harness racing. Sometimes referred to as trotting, this involves competitors sitting astride simple two wheeled carts known as sulkys and racing them around an oval track at high speed. Still a largely rural country, Wales has the highest number of competitors and followers. Originally the animals would be traditional working Welsh cobs which were raced at weekends. These days most people race American Standardbreds which have a very different galloping gait. The Bevan family have been racing here for three generations, and Mark and Jane give Richard a taste of just how fast the horses can go - with Colin Davies providing the commentary.
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Richard Taylor
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Arts and crafts seem to thrive along the Heart of Wales Railway. At Crossgates, Richard follows the sound of tapping to discover coppersmith Richard Taylor hard at work. He went to art college but is largely self-taught and began originally sculpting wood. Around 10 years ago he started incorporating copper into his work and has moved increasingly into the metal side. The designs follow natural, mythical themes influenced by European folklore and reflect Richard's love of nature and interest in environmental issues. All the works are beaten by hand and soldered. The copper is usually polished and then left to develop a patina, the colour of which varies from place to place around the country. Richard is also involved in the ARCADY project, in conjunction with the Heart of Wales Railway, which aims to bring people to rural parts of Wales by rail to learn arts and craft skills.
Long before the railway ever came to the area, the countryside was criss-crossed with drovers' roads, where large numbers of animals were driven on foot overland from North Wales to the markets in London. Local historian Dai Gealy takes Richard on a ramble on one such road, which is made from stones laid on their edges to give the drovers and their animals better grip. This whole part of Wales is laced with old drove routes and many old barns and houses would once have been droving inns - which is why there are so many Drover's Arms still today. Droving is thought to have started in the Middle Ages, but the busiest period was probably the late 1800s. Many different kinds of animals were moved this way - pigs, cattle, sheep and geese would be driven depending on the time of year - and the working dog was the corgi. Drovers were often regarded as brigands or unruly wild men, with a fearsome reputation - so much so that other travellers would often join them for protection. It's ironic that the road Richard is on today overlooks not only magnificent scenery, but also a viaduct which carries the Heart of Wales Railway - the coming of which spelled the end for the drovers.
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