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PROGRAMME INFO |
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From Shetland to the Scilly Isles, Open Country travels the UK in search of the stories, the people and the wildlife that make our countryside such a vibrant place. Each week we visit a new area to hear how local people are growing the crops, protecting the environment, maintaining the traditions and cooking the food that makes their corner of rural Britain unique.
Email: open.country@bbc.co.uk
Postal address: Open Country, 大象传媒 Radio 4, Birmingham, B5 7QQ.
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Lady Henniker in the walled garden
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Listener Sarah Openshaw wrote to invite Richard Uridge to the 2000-acre Thornham Estate in Suffolk to see "how a country estate has diversified to fit into the 21st century".
Thornham Hall was a perfect Tudor red brick moated hall with a classic straight and gated drive through the Park. It was expanded with a gracious Georgian façade and, by the 19th century, it boasted 120 rooms and 27 gardeners who tended 25 acres of formal gardens.
Royal visitors were frequently entertained and the shooting parties and country house weekends at Thornham were splendid occasions. The agricultural decline which followed the failure of the potato harvest in the 1890s and the repeal of the Corn Laws led to two-thirds of the old hall being pulled down at the turn of the 20th century. The final third burned down in the late 1940s and there is now a modern 20th century hall on the original site.
The present Lord Henniker retired to the estate about 25 years ago, after a long career in the diplomatic service which took him all over the world. He was ahead of his time in deciding that he would share his good fortune and open up his lands to the general public and finding ways to try to help rectify the problems of rural isolation, poverty and unemployment. He is passionately keen that people are encouraged to enjoy the country as he has and to learn about it.
In the walled garden, for example, the pre-Victorian glasshouses have been renovated and the garden has been planned as a walled orchard by Professor Peter Thoday, who also worked on the lost Gardens of Heligan and the Eden Project. People with special needs work in the garden itself and have transformed it after years of neglect to an area specialising in growing and caring for fruit trees. They've also managed to save the ancient Lady Henniker apple from extinction. Elsewhere, redundant farm buildings have been converted into workshops for small businesses and the farm is run alongside as a commercial business, but always with conservation in mind.
Archaeologist and landscape historian Mike Hardy shows Richard that the site is unique in having a continuous history of settlement since the first Neolithic farmers arrived. Over the last three years Mike has led an archaeological study of the Thornham Estate and says he's astounded by the archaeological finds. There is evidence of occupation from pre-history to modern times during all archaeological periods. Even during the dark ages, which is rare, as this was when the landscape normally was empty. It was an important religious centre from the days of St Felix and the re-emergence of Christianity throughout East Anglia, and the village of Thornham Parva was crucial to the development of Christianity in East Anglia.
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The Thornham Parva Retable
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Richard's next stop is the tiny thatched church in Thornham Parva, where the Reverend Anna Sorrenson is vicar to 50 people. The church may is small but has some wonderful medieval wall paintings depicting the death of St Edmund. It's most famous as the home of a unique Retable: the framed painted panels behind the altar are from the largest surviving altarpiece from the English Middle Ages. It was hidden during the Reformation and discovered between the wars by Lord Henniker, who gave it to this little church on his estate. It took several painstaking years of expert restoration to bring it to its current dazzling glory.
One of the greatest projects on the Thornham Estate is the Field Centre. Sarah Openshaw is its co-ordinator and Richard is surprised to find himself not in an indoor classroom, but out and about in the village of Thornham Magna.
The Centre opened in 1985 and day and residential groups visit throughout the year to follow national curriculum linked subjects in English, maths, literacy, science, technology, citizenship, and history, all taught using the wide variety of habitats and resources on the Estate (including woodland, parkland and wet meadows). The centre places a high priority on teaching children how to live sustainable lives. Mrs Marchant, a teacher from Gorseland Primary School near Ipswich, lets Richard join a group of her pupils as they discover a ford down the aptly named Water Lane.
Richard takes a stroll around some of the 12 miles of walks that criss-cross the Estate. Funded by Mid-Suffolk District Council, the Walks are looked after by Helen Sibley, the Thornham Countryside Project Officer and her assistant John Loome. Helen and John are responsible for the public access to the estate. There are many habitats, including woodland, parkland and traditional grazing meadows - and a pinetum where Lord Henniker has planted pine trees from all over the world.
The canopy of the woodland is dominated by oak and ash but, in the 19th century, more exotic species - such as sweet chestnut, lime and turkey oak were introduced. The understorey in the ancient woodland is mainly hazel stools. There are silver birch trees, hawthorn, field maple and guilder rose at the woodland edge. Amongst the wildflowers, Richard discovers Black Horehound, a plant with a perfume best described as esoteric.
Helen and John rely heavily on the help of volunteers for upkeep. Every last Sunday of the month is Volunteer Day, offering the opportunity to meet new people and learn different skills. Even on a weekday, people are busy and Richard bumps into a retired couple busy making hay.
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